The Sake Appreciation Thread 🍶

Sake brands from Okunoto have long been a major specialty of Ishikawa Prefecture owing to the work of the guilds, reputed as one of Japan's four prominent toji alongside those in Hyogo, Niigata and Iwate prefectures. [...] But the devastation caused by the quake seems certain to affect the link between guilds of master craftsmen that has made Noto brands so special, and could have an impact on the entire culture of sake making over the long term. [...] The prefectural federation of sake brewers associations has made clear that this year's shipments are all but doomed for brewers in the cities of Suzu and Wajima, as well as those from Noto town. "We need assistance from the entire country to rebuild. We really need your help," said Shigehisa Uratani, 68, the federation's managing director.

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The Kitasake project was first mooted in March 2020, immediately after the COVID-19 pandemic hit. Sapporo-based Soin de Beaute Co., which distributes natural cosmetics products online under the Sabina brand name, called on breweries across Hokkaido to join the cause and make the best out of a bad situation. So far, Tanaka Sake Brewing Co. in Otaru, Kunimare Sake Brewery Co. in Mashike and Takasagoshuzo Co. in Asahikawa have signed up. Others are also considering answering the call. A 720-ml bottle of Kitasake sells for 30,000 JPY (USD 200), excluding tax. It is available at the Sabina Premium Shop inside the cosmetics maker's main office building in central Sapporo and through its online store. The company first exported Kitasake products to China in 2022 and now has its sights set on the U.S. market.

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This was the fourth tour organized by Simeon Molard and Julien Casorla, who run a sake import and wholesale business in France, to learn more about the beverage. The participants came from a variety of professions, including a bookstore owner, a beer brewer and a laboratory technician, but all either love sake or have an interest in it. The brewing experience at Tajime Sake Brewery, known for the local "Chikusen" brand, was set up for three days, two nights as part of a week-long itinerary that included visits to a koji yeast manufacturer and a rice mill.

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"Isn't sake a distilled alcoholic beverage?" Japanese diplomats were stunned by a question from a European Commission official in early January. Sake is brewed, not distilled, from sake rice. The regulation agreed to on March 4 will require makers and sellers of alcoholic beverages to put at least 10% of their products in reusable or refillable containers from 2030. With a push from the U.S. and Italy, final rules were set to exempt wine and distilled spirits like whiskey. Their target was beer, and the treatment of sake had not even come up during discussions. The problem with sake was raised in the fall of 2023 by a Japanese farm ministry official who reread the proposal while working on the Japanese government's mission to the EU. The official realized that if the language were to be taken at face value, sake would be subject to the restriction. Since sake bottles have different shapes than wine bottles, reusing them in Europe would have been difficult. Reuse would have entailed shipping them back to Japan, costing both money and fuel -- seemingly at odds with the intent of the regulation. The EC did not realize that its environmental conservation efforts would lead to sake being singled out. Japan swiftly lobbied for changes, but the EC was reluctant to alter an already-announced proposal.

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Thirteen international students and two faculty members from Akita University and Akita International University participated in the March 23 event. Following a greeting from brewery President Yohei Ito, the participants watched a video on how sake is made and went on the brewery tour. In addition, they were treated to five kinds of sake, including "Kassei Rokushu," paired with five dishes made with local ingredients such as fried sandfish. Moira Lunge from Papua New Guinea, an Akita University Graduate School doctoral student, commented, "This is my first time to drink sake. They are all delicious. Beer is popular in my country, but if there is an opportunity to drink sake, it will likely be a hit."

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China and the US are the biggest consumers of sake, but the UK market is growing. Sake is no longer drunk just for courage at karaoke clubs, but sold in specialist shops and sophisticated bars. Waitrose reported searches for sake on its website have increased 241% year on year, while searches for plum sake were also up 100% on 2023. Even Wagamama – one of the first restaurants to offer the drink nationwide – has just added a sparkling sake to its list.

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According to the National Tax Agency, the issuance of new sake brewing licenses has basically been suspended for more than half a century for domestic production and distribution. Given the sluggish sales of sake in Japan, authorities have limited new entrants to the market to avoid excessive competition and prevent bankruptcies. Tax authorities use a "prerequisite for supply-demand adjustments" in decisions to issue sake-brewing licenses.

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Konohanano Brewery opened a facility in Singapore in May, while Fukuoka-based Librom Craft Sake Brewery, known for drinks marked by herbs and fruits, is increasing exports to China, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Behind their moves is the possibility that craft sake will be more readily accepted abroad than in the domestic market. The number of sake brewers outside Japan is rising, and up to 60 breweries now operate mainly in the United States and Europe. Breweries overseas do not face restrictions on side ingredients used in sake, so their products can take full advantage of local delicacies and specialties.

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The company's alcoholic beverages have previously been used in the country's hometown tax program, which allows people to direct some of their tax payments to a municipality of their choice in return for gifts or experiences. Ikkei Honma, 45, representative director of the firm, believes that submerging sake in Lake Saroma "could take the edge off the alcohol" to create a richer flavour, as the currents in the lake differ as it is connected to the Sea of Okhotsk. Yubetsu has budgeted 1.6 million yen ($9,950) in the current fiscal year to cover payments to local fishermen who are helping with the project and analytic costs. According to a town official, the town hopes to commercialize the sake, branded "Yubetsu," starting next summer and promoting it with locally produced scallops and oysters.

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The brewery, founded in 1790, produces about 320,000 litres annually. "Many steps are carried out by hand, and we are small in scale as a sake brewery," Yoshikubo said. Mito City is home to both the brewery and the rice it uses. The sake also relies on extra soft water drawn from Kasahara town. These local elements translate into a fruitiness and a distinct taste of rice. But how exactly should that pair with ballpark staples like the Dodger Dog? Apparently, well. And that's not by luck. Yoshikubo Brewery's hopes to charm the international market are imbued into its sake. It currently exports around 40 per cent of its products and began its international foray 20 years ago. Ippin's strong rice flavour was created to match the richly flavoured dishes of other countries. The bottle's label also got a makeover around ten years ago after the brewery sought opinions from overseas friends. Japanese armour and the "kabuto" helmet inspired its current black, red and gold design. The "ume" plum blossom branch is often associated with Mito and is a nod to the city.

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The sake market has also been squeezed by imports of foreign liquor and beers, Iuchi said, which has severely impacted Japan's traditional drinks sector. Around 40 years ago, there were as many as 4,000 sake brewers across the country, but today, that number has shrunk to just 1,400 producers, she told DW. [...] Iuchi said sake is primarily exported to China, the US and Hong Kong. Still, she aims to expand into other markets — including Singapore, Australia, Brazil, and Mexico — and increase the exports by 6%, which are presently making their way to Europe. "A lot of it is education. We need to work with sommeliers to explain to them which sakes go well with different dishes, for example, and then encourage them to share that with their customers," she noted. "It's about explaining the culture of sake, providing people with the back story and explaining how it works with European cuisine," she added.

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A woman in her 20s admitted that she hadn't expected the drink to be sake. She added that it was easy to drink and that she liked it. Another customer, a woman in her 60s, bought a set of the bottles. She said they looked cool and would give them to her husband. She also commented that they differed from what you could find at local liquor stores.

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Sake has traditionally been offered in Issho bin, or 1.8-liter glass bottles. Hinemos comes in 12 varieties, starting with "Ichiji," or 1 p.m., and ending with "Reiji," or midnight. The labels feature boldly designed numbers. "I believe more young people are 'allergic' to the kanji characters on the labels of sake," said Takuma Koga, 42, who designed the Hinemos bottles. "So I stuck to making them stylish and simple." The 12 varieties each assume a situation when and where people drink, and they provide a different taste for each occasion. A bottle of "Shichiji" (7 p.m.) features sparkling sake that people can consume to start their dinners. "Hachiji" (8 p.m.) is cloudy with a smooth taste that whets the appetite. "Kuji" (9 p.m.) is Junmai Daiginjo, a premium type using rice that is more than 50 percent polished and containing no added distilled alcohol. It pairs well with the main courses of dinners.

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Japan's Sake Know-How Recognized by UNESCO

Many in the industry also welcomed the move, hoping the recommendation and the expected listing will draw attention to the traditional drinks and their production methods. "It is an honor for Japan's sake brewing," said Hideharu Ota, the 64-year-old president of Daishichi Sake Brewery Co., a sake brewery in Japan's northeastern Fukushima Prefecture. "I hope people will renew their interest in Japan's world-recognized sake." Genuemon Sudo, the 55th head of Sudohonke Co., which is said to date back to 1141, in Ibaraki Prefecture, northeast of Tokyo, said the recommendation is a "rediscovery of a Japanese traditional culture." "I'd be happy if the listing will help attract people's attention and help prevent traditional sake-making from dying out," he said. The Japanese government nominated sake-making in 2022 for the UNESCO listing.

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Sake exports from Japan total more than 41 billion yen ($265 million) a year, with the most prominent destinations being the U.S. and China, according to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association. That's up from about 22 billion yen in 2018. However, exports still comprise a tiny fraction of Japan's sake production. Brazil, Mexico, Southeast Asia, France and the rest of Europe, where Japanese restaurants are gaining popularity, are starting to take a liking to sake.

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Tunnels within the dams, however, can be maintained at an ideal temperature of around 15 C, eliminating the need for refrigeration. They are also dark. The ability to save on costs may help the brewers take advantage of the growing international appreciation of sake products. Japanese exports of the rice-based drink soared to around 47.5 billion yen ($307 million) in 2022 from 8.9 billion yen in 2012. Meanwhile, the knowledge and skills for making it and "shochu" distilled spirits are expected to be formally endorsed for inclusion on the U.N. Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization's Intangible Cultural Heritage list later this year.

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Hiyaoroshi (冷やおろし): shiboritate sake pasteurised once in early spring and stored and aged during summer; around September, the sake is ready for consumption without second pasteurisation; it has a deep-matured aroma and is sold only in September and October as a seasonal sake of limited production.

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johnnyG said:

Tangential, but just had another quake a few minutes ago. Shindo 4 here, but 5- up the way. Epicenter seems to be off the coast of Togi/Hakui.

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"Each brewery in Japan has its own history, and over the years has produced sake using brewing techniques that have been refined and developed in each region," read a statement by Haruhiko Okura, the head of Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS), in response to the news on Thursday. "Sake has been an integral part of local festivals and annual events and has been enjoyed with the lifestyle and food culture of each of the four seasons — to learn about national sake is to come into contact with traditional Japanese culture," he said.

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