The Sake Appreciation Thread 🍶
- Thread starter JREF
- Start date
- 2 Jun 2005
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Just in case you do not know about Jim Rions Sake Deep Dive
www.listennotes.com
creators.spotify.com
Sake Deep Dive
A sake podcast for the beyond beginner! Sake brewer Andrew Russell and sake writer/translator Jim Rion dive deep into the history and culture around Japan's na…
www.listennotes.com
Sake Deep Dive • A podcast on Spotify for Podcasters
A sake podcast for the beyond beginner! Sake brewer Andrew Russell and sake writer/translator Jim Rion dive deep into the history and culture around Japan's national drink to bring context and insight, for when an introduction just won't cut it. Join us every month for a tokkuri full of...
creators.spotify.com
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I'm a big fan of Jim Rion's. 
I also enjoyed his translations of Japanese Lovecraftian literature.
Culture Discovering Yamaguchi Sake
Discovering Yamaguchi Sake: A Taster’s Guide to Breweries, Culture, and Terrain
I also enjoyed his translations of Japanese Lovecraftian literature.
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Asahi Shuzō in Yamaguchi, the company behind the popular "Dassai" brand, has announced plans to brew rice wine on the International Space Station next year. 
The company's recent project, which involved sending rice, koji mould, and yeast to the International Space Station (ISS) in late 2025, is a significant step towards its ultimate goal of establishing a brewery on the moon. This ambitious endeavour is a collaboration with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries and the Aichi Center for Industry and Science Technology. Asahi Shuzo will utilize the Japanese Experiment Module "Kibo" on the ISS, facilitated by a partnership with the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA).
Once in space, astronauts will combine the provided ingredients with water to initiate the fermentation process. The resulting mixture, "moromi," will be automatically stirred and monitored for alcohol levels. After the fermentation, the "moromi" will be frozen and returned to Earth for further analysis and, potentially, eventual consumption.
I guess I needn't put it on my wishlist:
The company's recent project, which involved sending rice, koji mould, and yeast to the International Space Station (ISS) in late 2025, is a significant step towards its ultimate goal of establishing a brewery on the moon. This ambitious endeavour is a collaboration with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries and the Aichi Center for Industry and Science Technology. Asahi Shuzo will utilize the Japanese Experiment Module "Kibo" on the ISS, facilitated by a partnership with the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA).
Once in space, astronauts will combine the provided ingredients with water to initiate the fermentation process. The resulting mixture, "moromi," will be automatically stirred and monitored for alcohol levels. After the fermentation, the "moromi" will be frozen and returned to Earth for further analysis and, potentially, eventual consumption.
I guess I needn't put it on my wishlist:
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Takahashi Mie is among only 33 female toji (master brewers) in Japan. She is in charge of Koten Brewery in Nagano.
AP looks at Japan's sake industry, why more women are entering sake brewing, and why, historically, they were banned from entering breweries.
Takahashi Mie (photo credit: AP)
AP looks at Japan's sake industry, why more women are entering sake brewing, and why, historically, they were banned from entering breweries.
Takahashi Mie (photo credit: AP)
Link:
Koten Sake Brewery
Koten Shuzo was founded in Okaya, Nagano, in 1871 by Takahashi Mikinosuke. The brewery is now run by Takahashi Mie, one of only 33 female toji across Japan.
- JREF
- Views: 502
- Category: Nagano Prefecture
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Sake production in India??
Takahashi Shouten (founded in 1717 and known for brands like Shigemasu) aims to enter the large Indian market after sake UNESCO recognized brewing as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Fukuoka Prefecture-based company established an Indian subsidiary in February and, while awaiting a local manufacturing license, is currently conducting trial production and scouting manufacturing locations in India. The Japanese Embassy in India believes this makes Takahashi Shouten the first Japanese sake producer with an Indian subsidiary. Despite religious restrictions on alcohol consumption in India, the country's vast population (over 1.4 billion) presents a significant potential market, as even a small percentage of drinkers would exceed Japan's total population.
www.japantimes.co.jp
Takahashi Shouten (founded in 1717 and known for brands like Shigemasu) aims to enter the large Indian market after sake UNESCO recognized brewing as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Fukuoka Prefecture-based company established an Indian subsidiary in February and, while awaiting a local manufacturing license, is currently conducting trial production and scouting manufacturing locations in India. The Japanese Embassy in India believes this makes Takahashi Shouten the first Japanese sake producer with an Indian subsidiary. Despite religious restrictions on alcohol consumption in India, the country's vast population (over 1.4 billion) presents a significant potential market, as even a small percentage of drinkers would exceed Japan's total population.
Japanese sake brewery to make foray into Indian market
Takahashi Shouten, based in the city of Yame in Fukuoka Prefecture, launched a subsidiary in India in February.
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JT on the emergence of brewery tourism in Japan:
Sake consumption in Japan has declined significantly since its peak in 1973, with current consumption levels at less than a third of that era. While overall alcohol consumption in Japan is declining, the decrease in regular-grade sake consumption is particularly notable. At the same time, the global demand for sake is flourishing: exports surged to ¥47.5 billion in 2022 from ¥11.5 billion recorded in 2014, driven by a rising international interest in sake, with an increasing number of restaurants and stores worldwide introducing it to their clientele. A survey conducted by the Japan Travel and Tourism Association revealed that "drinking sake" ranked sixth among the most anticipated activities for overseas visitors in 2019. This interest has grown significantly, with "drinking sake" now ranking fifth in the 2023 survey.
Tonoiki Sake Brewery
Examples of sake breweries that cater to tourists and foreign visitors are Sasaki Shuzo in Kyoto and Tonoike Brewery in Tochigi:
www.japantimes.co.jp
www.jurakudai.com
tonoike.jp
Sake consumption in Japan has declined significantly since its peak in 1973, with current consumption levels at less than a third of that era. While overall alcohol consumption in Japan is declining, the decrease in regular-grade sake consumption is particularly notable. At the same time, the global demand for sake is flourishing: exports surged to ¥47.5 billion in 2022 from ¥11.5 billion recorded in 2014, driven by a rising international interest in sake, with an increasing number of restaurants and stores worldwide introducing it to their clientele. A survey conducted by the Japan Travel and Tourism Association revealed that "drinking sake" ranked sixth among the most anticipated activities for overseas visitors in 2019. This interest has grown significantly, with "drinking sake" now ranking fifth in the 2023 survey.
Tonoiki Sake Brewery
Examples of sake breweries that cater to tourists and foreign visitors are Sasaki Shuzo in Kyoto and Tonoike Brewery in Tochigi:
Traveling for sake’s sake: The emergence of brewery tourism in Japan
While sake consumption has declined in Japan, breweries across the nation are taking advantage of a rise in overseas interest to promote themselves as tourist destinations.
Links:
京都洛中・佐々木酒造株式会社のホームページへようこそ
〜名水にはぐくまれた伝承の技、伝統の味〜 京都の二条城北にある「佐々木酒造」のホームページです。京都市に所在する酒造の蔵元の中でも洛中に現存する唯一の蔵元です。
『益子の酒蔵』外池酒造店 懐かしくこころ癒ゆ酒蔵 ｜ 日本酒や化粧品の製造・販売
栃木県の益子町にて1937年から創業。清酒「燦爛」や「望」をはじめ、焼酎・どぶろく・リキュールを製造。オリジナル日本酒コスメもあり、幅広い商品展開をしています。酒蔵見学コースやカフェも併設され、年間約7万人以上が訪れる観光酒蔵としても親しまれています。
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Last year, sake-making received official recognition as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, highlighting its cultural significance in Japan. In response, Kenbishi Shuzō, one of Japan's oldest sake breweries, has reaffirmed its dedication to preserving traditional sake barrel-making as part of its commitment to upholding this century-old heritage.
Kenbishi Shuzō is one of Japan's oldest sake breweries, founded in 1505. It's located in Hyōgo Prefecture's Nada-Gogo, the largest sake-producing area in Japan. Traditional wooden sake barrels wrapped in decorative straw mats, called komodo, are the third sake brewing-related product the company is now producing in-house, following other wooden sake utensils and the straw ropes wrapped around the barrels for transportation.
No.1 Nihonbashi Bridge, 1847-1852, Utagawa Hiroshige; publisher: Maruya Seijirō
Kenbishi Shuzō traditionally made its sake barrels using straw and other natural materials to show its deep appreciation for the natural world and use in ceremonial offerings. However, in 2016, the company's supplier of straw rope ceased production when its manufacturing machine broke down. Vinyl barrels were used instead, but something never felt quite right about that.
soranews24.com
Kenbishi Shuzō is one of Japan's oldest sake breweries, founded in 1505. It's located in Hyōgo Prefecture's Nada-Gogo, the largest sake-producing area in Japan. Traditional wooden sake barrels wrapped in decorative straw mats, called komodo, are the third sake brewing-related product the company is now producing in-house, following other wooden sake utensils and the straw ropes wrapped around the barrels for transportation.
No.1 Nihonbashi Bridge, 1847-1852, Utagawa Hiroshige; publisher: Maruya Seijirō
Kenbishi Shuzō traditionally made its sake barrels using straw and other natural materials to show its deep appreciation for the natural world and use in ceremonial offerings. However, in 2016, the company's supplier of straw rope ceased production when its manufacturing machine broke down. Vinyl barrels were used instead, but something never felt quite right about that.
Kenbishi Shuzo sake brewery commits to production of traditional wooden sake barrels
One of Japan's oldest breweries carries on the craft as UNESCO registers Japanese sake brewing as Intangible Cultural Heritage this month.
soranews24.com
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With the rising global popularity of Japanese cuisine, sake breweries are looking to capitalise on the trend. Local governments are supporting them by promoting the traditional beverage as an integral part of their regional history and culture. These efforts seem to be yielding results. The volume of sake exports last year was 90% higher than a decade ago, driven by strong demand from the U.S. and China. The export value also saw a 6% year-on-year increase, reaching 43.4 billion yen ($285 million).
Gifu sake presentation in Paris (photo credit: Nikkei)
Nikkei Asia looked at Asahi Shuzo in Yamaguchi, maker of the famous Dassai brand, which began exporting sake around 2000 and opened a brewery in the Hudson Valley region of New York state in 2023. Exports accounted for 6.8 billion yen of Asahi Shuzo's 17.5 billion yen in sales for the year ended September 2023, making the brewery the top sake exporter; at Miwa Shuzo from Gifu, producer of nigori—unfiltered and cloudy—sake and other products to about 20 markets, mainly in Europe, the U.S. and Southeast Asia. Overseas markets account for 15% of total shipments; and at Miyagi, a Pacific coastal prefecture on Honshu, which has worked with local sake brewers to target the European market under the Miyagi Style marketing campaign that began in 2021. The focus for sake exports was mainly on Asia, but the prefecture decided that recognition in Europe was essential to enhance the Miyagi sake brand.
Gifu Prefecture has hosted promotional events for sake in New York, Hong Kong, and European cities. Based on feedback from breweries, the prefectural government has taken creative steps to help increase business, including holding tasting events for not only importers but also sommeliers who make purchasing decisions. The mountainous prefecture in central Japan also publishes a catalogue in four languages—English, French, Chinese, and Japanese—profiling 45 breweries. Exports from Gifu surged 80% over the five years to 2023.
Paywall alert:
asia.nikkei.com
Gifu sake presentation in Paris (photo credit: Nikkei)
Nikkei Asia looked at Asahi Shuzo in Yamaguchi, maker of the famous Dassai brand, which began exporting sake around 2000 and opened a brewery in the Hudson Valley region of New York state in 2023. Exports accounted for 6.8 billion yen of Asahi Shuzo's 17.5 billion yen in sales for the year ended September 2023, making the brewery the top sake exporter; at Miwa Shuzo from Gifu, producer of nigori—unfiltered and cloudy—sake and other products to about 20 markets, mainly in Europe, the U.S. and Southeast Asia. Overseas markets account for 15% of total shipments; and at Miyagi, a Pacific coastal prefecture on Honshu, which has worked with local sake brewers to target the European market under the Miyagi Style marketing campaign that began in 2021. The focus for sake exports was mainly on Asia, but the prefecture decided that recognition in Europe was essential to enhance the Miyagi sake brand.
Gifu Prefecture has hosted promotional events for sake in New York, Hong Kong, and European cities. Based on feedback from breweries, the prefectural government has taken creative steps to help increase business, including holding tasting events for not only importers but also sommeliers who make purchasing decisions. The mountainous prefecture in central Japan also publishes a catalogue in four languages—English, French, Chinese, and Japanese—profiling 45 breweries. Exports from Gifu surged 80% over the five years to 2023.
Paywall alert:
Japan sake breweries head abroad to tap new enthusiasts
Localities look to help brewers by courting sommeliers and Italian restaurants
asia.nikkei.com
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One of the most famous sake producers, Asahi Shuzō, will rebrand as Dassai Inc. in June, leveraging its well-known brand name to strengthen global recognition and expand international sales. In his second term as prime minister, Shinzo Abe gave a bottle of Dassai sake to U.S. President Obama as a gift.
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Two years ago, 27-year-old Mitsuyuki Hiramatsu, a graduate student at Utsunomiya University, found himself at a crossroads, struggling with uncertainty about his future. During his second year of university, he launched his own import-export business, but the COVID-19 pandemic forced its closure. Disheartened, he took a part-time job at a restaurant in Utsunomiya to make ends meet. What he initially saw as a temporary means of support unexpectedly became a turning point in his life.
One day at work, he was chatting with his colleague, 21-year-old Minami Tamura, when their conversation turned to "doburoku," a traditional form of unrefined sake. The brewing process is straightforward: steamed rice is combined with water and rice malt and then left to ferment. Over time, this results in a smooth and flavourful doburoku.
This photo, provided by Mitsuyuki Hiramatsu, shows the doburoku ice cream commercialized as "Haku." It can be bought at roadside stations in Tochigi Prefecture and other locations.
Doburoku:
This straightforward brewing process likely explains why nearly every farming household in Japan once made doburoku. However, with the Meiji-era government's ban on home brewing (1868–1912), all homemade doburoku was reclassified as "illicit liquor."
In recent years, though, doburoku has been making a comeback. In 2003, the government introduced "doburoku special zones," allowing home brewing in designated areas. Since then, municipalities nationwide have eagerly sought participation in the initiative.
mainichi.jp
The original product isn't bad, either. We reviewed it here:
One day at work, he was chatting with his colleague, 21-year-old Minami Tamura, when their conversation turned to "doburoku," a traditional form of unrefined sake. The brewing process is straightforward: steamed rice is combined with water and rice malt and then left to ferment. Over time, this results in a smooth and flavourful doburoku.
This photo, provided by Mitsuyuki Hiramatsu, shows the doburoku ice cream commercialized as "Haku." It can be bought at roadside stations in Tochigi Prefecture and other locations.
Doburoku:
This straightforward brewing process likely explains why nearly every farming household in Japan once made doburoku. However, with the Meiji-era government's ban on home brewing (1868–1912), all homemade doburoku was reclassified as "illicit liquor."
In recent years, though, doburoku has been making a comeback. In 2003, the government introduced "doburoku special zones," allowing home brewing in designated areas. Since then, municipalities nationwide have eagerly sought participation in the initiative.
Nondrinkers team up in east Japan to produce traditional 'doburoku' sake ice cream - The Mainichi
TOKYO -- Two years ago, Mitsuyuki Hiramatsu, a 27-year-old graduate student at Utsunomiya University, found himself in the depths of despair with no c
The original product isn't bad, either. We reviewed it here:
Nakano Kunizakari Junmai Doburoku
Nakano Kunizakari Junmai Doburoku (國盛 純米どぶろく) is made from 100% contract-grown rice and is bottled as-is without filtering. Best served cold.
Doburoku means "home-brewed sake". Bootlegging was outlawed in the Meiji period. Nowadays, doburoku refers to sake with a lower volume of alcohol and a...
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The Cultural Affairs Agency has devised a new policy to designate skilled Japanese food artisans, including chefs and toji master sake brewers, as living national treasures. The agency plans to revise the criteria for recognising specific skills as cultural assets. Based on these updated criteria, it will also amend the standards for certifying individuals as living national treasures, formally known as holders of important intangible cultural assets.
japannews.yomiuri.co.jp
Chefs, Master Sake Brewers to Be Named Living Treasures; Government Aiming to Protect Japan’s Food Culture’
<p>A policy to recognize chefs, toji master sake brewers and other skilled Japanese food artisans as living national treasures has been mapped out by the Cultural Affairs Agency, The Yomiuri Shimbun has learned.</p>
japannews.yomiuri.co.jp
This seems like korean makgeolli? I've drunk a lot of that once upon a time...
Even made some once, on the sly. Two korean co-workers had gotten some 'nuruk' from a farmer or something (the rice/malt starter). But since making makgeolli on your own was illegal, the solution was that I could make it in my room, and somehow that would be okay (word would not get around--they had wives who would talk to others about it).
I forget the proportions and so on, but they mixed it up in a ceramic pot, covered it, and left it on my warm floor for something like a week. Yield was something like 5-6 liters, and that was enough for a couple wild evenings. The good part, as I recall, was to let it settle and take the clearer liquid off the top. Killer stuff.
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Makgeolli usually has 5-6% of alcohol (ABV), doburoku can have anything from 6 to 14%.
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On 27 March, Brooklyn Kura, a New York-based sake brewery, became the first U.S. sake producer to export its products to Japan. This milestone comes from a partnership between Brooklyn Kura, founded in 2018, and Hakkaisan in Niigata Prefecture. Their collaboration, which began in 2021, has focused on exchanging ideas for product development and expanding sake's presence among American consumers.
Now, the flow is reversing. Brian Polen, co-founder and president of Brooklyn Kura, did not disclose the exact number of cases being exported but mentioned that the "initial volume is relatively small." However, the brewery's sake will soon be available at select bars, restaurants, and liquor shops across Japan.
Sake consumption in the U.S. is strong. According to the Japanese Sake and Shochu Makers Association, exports from Japan to the U.S. doubled from 2012 to 2022—from less than 4 million litres per year to 9 million litres per year—making the country the biggest export market for sake by volume.
www.japantimes.co.jp
www.brooklynkura.com
Now, the flow is reversing. Brian Polen, co-founder and president of Brooklyn Kura, did not disclose the exact number of cases being exported but mentioned that the "initial volume is relatively small." However, the brewery's sake will soon be available at select bars, restaurants, and liquor shops across Japan.
Sake consumption in the U.S. is strong. According to the Japanese Sake and Shochu Makers Association, exports from Japan to the U.S. doubled from 2012 to 2022—from less than 4 million litres per year to 9 million litres per year—making the country the biggest export market for sake by volume.
New York’s Brooklyn Kura becomes first U.S. sake exporter to Japan
The brewer’s initial exports are “relatively small,” but it hopes drinkers in Japan are “open to trying” American-made sake.
Brooklyn Kura
Local. Craft. Sake. Brewery. Online Store. Tap Room. Event Space. Industry City. Drink. Party. Inspired by Tradition. Brewed in Brooklyn.
www.brooklynkura.com
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Great advertising opportunity I guess.
japantoday.com
www.asahishuzo.ne.jp
Innovation over tradition sending Dassai sake to the moon
If humans eventually colonize the moon, the early settlers might toast their success with a bottle of sake, realizing the dream of brewer Asahi Shuzo Co. Yamaguchi-based Asahi Shuzo, known for its Dassai sake brand, in February took a leap forward, unveiling at an event in Tokyo a bottle of…
japantoday.com
Brewing Sake in Space for the first time in Human History. - Dassai｜Asahishuzo
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With rice prices soaring, sake breweries find it increasingly difficult to obtain the specialized rice required for brewing as farmers shift their focus toward more profitable table rice varieties.
The cost of rice for consumption has risen sharply, outpacing that of sake rice. In response, many farmers are devoting more land to growing and eating rice, reducing the space allocated to rice used in sake production. Faced with supply shortages, some brewery operators are reportedly considering scaling back or suspending output for the 2025 harvest season. A Hyogo Prefecture Sake Rice Promotion Association representative noted the difficult conditions facing the agriculture sector and expressed hope that brewing rice could be purchased at the same price as table rice, allowing farmers to continue cultivating it as before.
Local governments have introduced support measures to help breweries facing financial strain. In its 2025 initial budget, Ehime Prefecture allocated 23.62 million yen to assist brewers by covering 10% of their sake rice purchase costs. Prices for sake rice grown in the region have seen notable increases, with the Matsuyama Mii variety up by 18% and Shizukuhime up by 14% compared to the previous year, forcing some breweries to scale back production.
Yamagata Prefecture has also responded, setting aside 40.1 million yen in its February supplementary budget. The funds will subsidize 50% of the price hikes for four local sake rice varieties, including Yukimegami and Dewa no Sato, benefiting the prefecture's 49 breweries.
The cost of rice for consumption has risen sharply, outpacing that of sake rice. In response, many farmers are devoting more land to growing and eating rice, reducing the space allocated to rice used in sake production. Faced with supply shortages, some brewery operators are reportedly considering scaling back or suspending output for the 2025 harvest season. A Hyogo Prefecture Sake Rice Promotion Association representative noted the difficult conditions facing the agriculture sector and expressed hope that brewing rice could be purchased at the same price as table rice, allowing farmers to continue cultivating it as before.
Local governments have introduced support measures to help breweries facing financial strain. In its 2025 initial budget, Ehime Prefecture allocated 23.62 million yen to assist brewers by covering 10% of their sake rice purchase costs. Prices for sake rice grown in the region have seen notable increases, with the Matsuyama Mii variety up by 18% and Shizukuhime up by 14% compared to the previous year, forcing some breweries to scale back production.
Yamagata Prefecture has also responded, setting aside 40.1 million yen in its February supplementary budget. The funds will subsidize 50% of the price hikes for four local sake rice varieties, including Yukimegami and Dewa no Sato, benefiting the prefecture's 49 breweries.
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Fujii Shuzō in Usuki, a centuries-old sake brewery in Oita Prefecture, has launched a hands-on seminar for foreign sommeliers. The seminar will introduce them to traditional Japanese brewing methods, which UNESCO recognised last year as part of its Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
Fujii Shuzō in Usuki, Oita Prefecture (photo credit: Kyodo)
Held over five days, the seminar is a component of a broader programme run by the British-based Sake Sommelier Academy. Designed for seasoned professionals in the field, the course seeks to cultivate a greater global understanding and appreciation of sake. On 4th February, Austrian food and wine consultant Andre Cis, aged 40, steamed rice and prepared it with kōji rice mould and water in fermentation tanks. He described the brewing process as demanding and highly sophisticated, expressing a strong desire to introduce the sake he encountered to audiences back in Austria. Another participant from Israel also attended the seminar on a separate date.
Toru Fujii, the 50-year-old head of Fujii Shuzō, remarked that the event is a valuable opportunity to attract international interest in sake. Although some in Japan's domestic sake industry have voiced concern about potentially revealing trade secrets to foreign audiences, Fujii is more preoccupied with the ongoing decline of the domestic market.
english.kyodonews.net
We sampled Fujii Shuzō once before:
Fujii Shuzō in Usuki, Oita Prefecture (photo credit: Kyodo)
Held over five days, the seminar is a component of a broader programme run by the British-based Sake Sommelier Academy. Designed for seasoned professionals in the field, the course seeks to cultivate a greater global understanding and appreciation of sake. On 4th February, Austrian food and wine consultant Andre Cis, aged 40, steamed rice and prepared it with kōji rice mould and water in fermentation tanks. He described the brewing process as demanding and highly sophisticated, expressing a strong desire to introduce the sake he encountered to audiences back in Austria. Another participant from Israel also attended the seminar on a separate date.
Toru Fujii, the 50-year-old head of Fujii Shuzō, remarked that the event is a valuable opportunity to attract international interest in sake. Although some in Japan's domestic sake industry have voiced concern about potentially revealing trade secrets to foreign audiences, Fujii is more preoccupied with the ongoing decline of the domestic market.
Historic Japan sake brewery offering courses for foreign sommeliers
A sake brewery in southwestern Japan with an over 150-year history has begun offering a seminar for foreign sommeliers on the traditional techniques for making the Japanese alcoholic drink, which were added to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list last year.
We sampled Fujii Shuzō once before:
Fujii Kurabito no Banshaku Genshu
Fujii Kurabito no Banshaku Genshu (藤居 蔵人の晩酌酒 原酒) is an undiluted sake made by Fujii Brewery in Oita Prefecture. "Kurabito no Banshaku" translates to the sake brewer's evening drink, hinting that this sake originally crafted by master brewer Ogawa (小川杜氏) was reserved for the kurabito.
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Nikkei Asia on the changing image of nihonshu, from an "old man's drink" towards foreign shores and the lady clientele:
Sake, Japan's traditional brewed alcoholic beverage, has been gaining traction internationally for some time. Although its popularity received a boost last year when UNESCO recognised the traditional knowledge and techniques of sake brewing as an intangible cultural heritage, exports had already been on the rise.
In 2024, Japan exported 31,000 kilolitres of sake—more than double the volume from the previous year—bringing in over ¥43 billion (around $287.9 million), a 105.8% increase in value. Breweries such as Takara, a Kyoto-based sake producer with offices abroad, have been capitalising on the growing global interest by expanding into North America and partnering with European food and drink firms.
Paywall alert:
asia.nikkei.com
Sake, Japan's traditional brewed alcoholic beverage, has been gaining traction internationally for some time. Although its popularity received a boost last year when UNESCO recognised the traditional knowledge and techniques of sake brewing as an intangible cultural heritage, exports had already been on the rise.
In 2024, Japan exported 31,000 kilolitres of sake—more than double the volume from the previous year—bringing in over ¥43 billion (around $287.9 million), a 105.8% increase in value. Breweries such as Takara, a Kyoto-based sake producer with offices abroad, have been capitalising on the growing global interest by expanding into North America and partnering with European food and drink firms.
Paywall alert:
Sake segues into the 21st century
Women and foreign drinkers are lapping up Japan's traditional 'old man's' drink
asia.nikkei.com
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Rice prices remain elevated, and the impact of what is being referred to as the "Reiwa Rice Crisis" is extending well beyond ordinary table rice. One sake enthusiast, holding a glass of Kitano Nishiki brewed from Kuriyama-grown rice, remarked on its flavour, noting how distinctly the rice's sweetness comes through. With global interest in Japanese cuisine on the rise and the December 2024 inscription of "traditional sake brewing" on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, Japanese sake has garnered increased international attention.
Yet this surge in recognition has coincided with serious challenges for sake brewers, who are being hit hard by the soaring cost of rice. One brewery representative admitted that the rise in rice prices has left them with little choice but to pass the burden on to consumers through higher product prices. The consequences are also being felt by sake rice growers. One farmer expressed concern that if the situation persists, it could lead to a decline in the cultivation of rice varieties explicitly used for sake production, or even force some farmers out of business altogether. With no clear end in sight, the Reiwa-era rice shortage is placing significant pressure on Japan's sake industry.
Yet this surge in recognition has coincided with serious challenges for sake brewers, who are being hit hard by the soaring cost of rice. One brewery representative admitted that the rise in rice prices has left them with little choice but to pass the burden on to consumers through higher product prices. The consequences are also being felt by sake rice growers. One farmer expressed concern that if the situation persists, it could lead to a decline in the cultivation of rice varieties explicitly used for sake production, or even force some farmers out of business altogether. With no clear end in sight, the Reiwa-era rice shortage is placing significant pressure on Japan's sake industry.
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Fushimi-based Gekkeikan Brewery has created a version of the traditional Japanese drink made exclusively from rice grown overseas, timed to coincide with the upcoming Osaka Kansai Expo. The initiative began in 2021 with the catchphrase, "Brewing world-class sake with rice from around the globe." The idea was spearheaded by younger staff in their twenties and thirties, who aimed to craft a sake that reflects both sustainability and global appeal. Producing sake entirely from rice cultivated outside of Japan is, according to Gekkeikan, a "highly unusual undertaking."
Gekkeikan's World Sake
Gekkeikan's World Sake
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Berlin is now home to Germany's first sake brewery. Reigen opened in Mitte in August 2024, set up beneath a former bowling alley on Gerichtstraße. Founded by Berliner Sebastian Mrohs, who first discovered sake while living in Japan, the brewery produces a European take on the drink. Instead of importing Japanese rice, Reigen uses Carnaroli rice from northern Italy, polished less than usual to give a fuller, drier flavour.
Reigen's Cosisi Natural
The brewery's sake has a golden colour, higher acidity and a style closer to wine, sometimes aged in barrels or infused with citrus. Production is still small—about 1,000 bottles a month—but bottles already appear at leading Berlin restaurants. While sake remains a niche market in Germany, Reigen aims to introduce it to broader European audiences, with Paris as a possible next step.
www.japantimes.co.jp
Reigen's Cosisi Natural
The brewery's sake has a golden colour, higher acidity and a style closer to wine, sometimes aged in barrels or infused with citrus. Production is still small—about 1,000 bottles a month—but bottles already appear at leading Berlin restaurants. While sake remains a niche market in Germany, Reigen aims to introduce it to broader European audiences, with Paris as a possible next step.
Germany's first sakemaker offers a bold brew of ideas
Yellowish and high in acidity, German sake won't please the purists, but open-minded consumers, especially wine drinkers, may find something appealing.
Link:
- 14 Mar 2002
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The BBC has a video on Niigata, Japan's kingdom of sake:
www.bbc.com
A visit to Niigata, Japan's kingdom of sake
Niigata on the west coast of Japan's Honshu Island has more sake breweries than any other prefecture.
www.bbc.com
- 15 Mar 2002
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