The World Is Enthralled: Japanese Soba
Why Are Foreigners Flocking to a "Hidden" Soba Shop in Asakusabashi?
【J's Investigation】【Super J Channel】
We previously reported on how Japanese soba is captivating people around the world. For foreign tourists, soba that is served quickly has become especially appealing. But as we continued our investigation, we witnessed some surprising moments as foreigners enjoyed soba.
■ Global Soba Boom: Changes Even at Famous Chains
In Tokyo's Shinjuku ward lies Omoide Yokocho. There you'll find a soba shop known worldwide: Kameya, a tiny counter-only restaurant with just eight seats.
Soba arrives in about one minute after ordering, a blessing for busy tourists. An astonishing 500 foreign customers visit daily.
Visitor from Argentina:
"Ramen is very popular in Argentina, but we don't have soba, so I wanted to try it."
The most popular dish among foreigners is Tama-ten soba (560 yen), topped with a soft-boiled egg and crispy kakiage tempura.
Women from Germany:
"It's delicious."
"You order and it comes right away, and it's very cheap. Wonderful."
(Q: How did you find this place?) "A coworker recommended it."
The two women are flight attendants. Among those who travel the world, soba in this alley is apparently well known.
They were even sipping soba while holding takeaway coffee.
German visitor:
"(Q: Coffee with soba?) The combination warmed my body. It was perfect."
The global soba boom is also affecting major chains. This year, a new menu item targeting foreign customers appeared: chilled soba topped with thick-cut beef katsu, inspired by the foreign popularity of katsudon.
Visitor from Malaysia:
"Ramen used to be my favorite Japanese food. Now I like soba more."
■ Why They Insist on "90 Percent" Soba
Next stop: Jindaiji in Chofu, Tokyo, famous for Jindaiji soba, home to many renowned soba restaurants.
As the season for freshly harvested soba arrives in autumn, crowds gather.
At Yusui, founded 31 years ago, students from China and Vietnam were intently slurping soba.
Visitor from China:
"This is the most delicious thing I've eaten since coming to Japan."
The soba flour used comes from Akagi in Gunma Prefecture, known for its rich aroma. The shop serves rare kyuwari soba (90 percent buckwheat).
Owner Yusuke Kodama:
"Some people find 100 percent buckwheat soba hard to eat. We add a small amount of binder and make it 90 percent. You don't see that very often."
Compared to 100 percent soba, 90 percent soba breaks less easily and is easier to eat, while preserving as much aroma as possible.
The most popular dish is the Ten-mori soba, served with a platter of six kinds of tempura, including shrimp and pumpkin.
Woman from Los Angeles:
"(Q: Is there Japanese soba in LA?) Yes, but only at very expensive places. This would cost at least 3,000 to 4,000 yen."
Couple from Canada:
"We've tried making soba at home."
They bought soba at a Canadian supermarket and followed YouTube videos, but overcooked it. Eating authentic soba in Japan had been their dream.
They also experienced sobayu (the hot water used to boil soba) for the first time.
Canadian visitor:
"I've never had sobayu before."
Wife: "Do you know how much water to add?"
Staff: "Add as much as you like."
Canadian visitor:
"It's delicious. Warm and gentle. On a cold, windy day like this, it's very comforting. I might try making soba again."
■ "There's a Buddha for Soba?"
At Jindaiji, there's also a unique soba-related site. A couple from New Zealand came to visit.
Visitor from New Zealand:
"In Auckland, soba is the second most popular Japanese food after ramen."
They visited Sobamori Kannon, a statue holding buckwheat seeds in its left hand and a sake flask filled with soba sauce in its right.
Because rice farming was difficult in this area, soba became important. Soba shop owners visit this statue to pray for business success.
Visitor from New Zealand:
"I never imagined there would be a 'Buddha of soba.'"
■ Foreigners at a Little-Known Soba Shop
Even in places that are hardly tourist spots, foreigners are appearing at hidden soba gems.
One example is Hyakusoba in Asakusabashi, Taito Ward, Tokyo.
A Chinese man was eating Yukaita soba, topped with grated mountain wasabi that clears the sinuses.
Visitor from China:
"Soba is healthy. It makes you feel refreshed."
The soba flour comes from Nagano, a famous production area. The dipping sauce blends five kinds of dried fish flakes.
Another popular dish is On-tama gyusuki soba, inspired by sukiyaki-style beef, sweetly seasoned with sugar and dashi.
The Famous Chicken Tempura Soba comes with five large pieces of chicken tempura.
Visitors from Australia:
"Soba in Australia doesn't have this level of umami. The broth here has much more depth."
"I ordered tsuke-soba with extra meat."
The man ordered niku tsuke soba, adding extra pork belly for an additional charge.
Australian visitor:
"You can really taste the umami of the pork in the sauce. It's deep and rich."
Then came a surprise: they began drinking the soba dipping sauce straight.
"(Q: Like ramen soup?) Yes. Don't you drink it all?"
"In Australia, we usually finish it."
Whether true or not, they drank it all.
"It's really delicious."
So why are foreigners coming to this little-known soba shop?
Owner Kiyoaki Ichii:
"I honestly don't know why. I don't even speak foreign languages that well."
When asked, a foreign customer said:
"I wanted to eat soba, so I searched for a place near my hotel."
Asakusabashi has convenient access to Asakusa and Ueno, leading to an increase in hotels and foreign visitors using the area as a base.
■ Healthy Soba Popular with Foreigners
Near Shibuya's Scramble Crossing is a complex housing a soba shop that doesn't look like one at first glance: Hanemi.
Visitor from Kazakhstan:
"I found it on Google Maps. It had a 4.5 rating."
The soba flour changes by season. Their signature dish is Ten-oroshi soba, topped with grated daikon and tempura crumbs.
The tempura includes shrimp and shishito peppers. The coarsely ground buckwheat gives it a distinctive aroma.
Owner Masahiro Urakawa:
"We were featured in the French or English Michelin Guide that's published overseas."
This shop is actually a sister restaurant of Tamawarai, a soba restaurant repeatedly listed in the Michelin Guide.
Their soba sauce is made by slowly simmering top-grade bonito flakes, blending in mirin that has been flambéed to enhance umami. It's light yet deeply flavorful.
Visitor from the U.S.:
"This soba sauce is amazing. Try it. See? Delicious, right?"
Another popular dish among health-conscious foreigners is Tofu soba, topped with sweet edamame tofu.
American visitor:
"I'm vegetarian, so I eat tofu a lot. I really like the combination of soba and tofu."
■ Making Soba in Kappabashi
Even in Kappabashi, known for kitchenware, you can eat soba. At Rakujō, visitors can try making soba themselves.
Group from Singapore:
"Wonderful."
"There are many Japanese restaurants in Singapore, and we eat soba often, so we wanted to try making it."
They ate the soba they made themselves, adding braised pork to create a ramen-style dish. The experience starts at 5,700 yen.
Visitors from Singapore:
"Soba in Singapore has sauce that's too salty to drink. This soup is drinkable, so it's really enjoyable."
"Next time, I want to learn how to make this soup."
■ A Foreigner with Extraordinary Love for Soba
In Zushi City, Kanagawa Prefecture, we found a foreigner with an extraordinary love for soba.
Just one minute from Zushi Station is Ishi-usu Soba, founded 25 years ago.
First-time visitor:
"When I first walked in, I was surprised. 'Huh? The owner isn't Japanese?'"
Regular customer:
"It's better than many ordinary Japanese soba shops."
The owner, Chowdhury, is from Bangladesh. He discovered his love for soba 29 years ago while studying in Japan.
The trigger was learning about nodo-goshi (the smooth sensation when swallowing).
Owner Chowdhury:
"Foreigners chew their food. They can't just slurp it down."
"When I happened to swallow it smoothly, it felt like a new discovery. You really understand the depth of flavor and texture."
He uses sotoichi soba, favored by connoisseurs for its aroma and smoothness.
Customer:
"It's so smooth and delicious."
"Cold soba usually has more aroma, but even the hot soba here smells amazing."
The shop also offers original creations, such as curry soba made with Bangladeshi spices.
Customer:
"The spice aroma and the sweetness of the broth are irresistible in cold weather."
Ironically, Chowdhury says he can't eat spicy food and doesn't even like curry. He created it simply in response to customer requests.