Back in January of 1975, when my wife to be and I first took up residence together, we lived in a small apartment with a 6 tatami room, a toilet, and a tiny closet of a kitchen area, but with no hot water or bath. This made it necessary to use the public bath, which was about a block down the street from our apartment. It was your basic neighborhood bath house with two doors, one for men and one for women, through which one would enter the appropriate changing room, separated from the other changing room by a cashier's desk and a flimsy partition. From there, one would enter the bath, which was a tiled room, lined with pairs of hot/cold spigots mounted low on the wall, with a big tub of hot water at the end of the room.
Now by this time, I was accustomed to community showers from school gym, a couple of years of college dorm life, and four and a half years of being in the military, so getting buck naked and showering with a bunch of strangers was a pretty familiar experience. However, it was a little bit weird the first time I walked into the public bath, being the only gaijin. What made it even weirder was that it was late at night when there were more than a few members of the local yakuza in there having their bath time. Those guys sure have some impressive ink work.
Ritsuko had briefed me on basic Japanese bath etiquette, and I had stayed in Japanese inns before, so I felt like I knew how to go about bathing there without creating an international incident, but what I was not prepared for was the willingness of others to help me bathe.
I sat on a little wooden stool, dousing myself with water, and soaping up, when suddenly I felt someone washing my back. Startled, I said something on the order of "what", as I abruptly turned to stare down the guy next to me. He looked quite surprised, grinning, holding the soap covered towel with which he had been touching my back a milisecond before. Everyone in the room was looking at me, and I noticed that several of the guys in the room were washing the back of the person next to him. Silence had fallen upon the room, and quickly assessing the situation, I surmised that it must be the custom, so I smiled, nodded, and went back to what I was doing. After my new buddy had washed my back, he motioned for me to wash his back. It felt really weird, but it did make sense, so I went ahead and washed the back of my tattoo covered friend. After that, all was well in the bath house, and the new gaijin in the neighborhood was accepted in the late night yakuza bath club.
Walking back to our apartment that night, I told Ritsuko what had happened, to which she giggled as she replied, "Oh!! I should have told you that might happen!"