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The NYT on the many threats that wasabi farmers and the root itself face: rising temperatures cause mould and rot, the water quality is deteriorating due to degrading cedar forests, and wildlife such as boars and deer is ravaging fields, driven down the mountains for lack of nutrition at higher altitudes.
And did you know that:
Already, these hazards have chipped away at the centuries-old culture of wasabi in the area and imperilled the future of one of the prefecture's most important agricultural products and a pillar of its tourism business. Over the last decade, the volume of wasabi produced in Shizuoka has declined by close to 55 per cent, according to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. "I have a sense of crisis," said Hiroyuki Mochizuki, president of Tamaruya, a 147-year-old company in Shizuoka that processes wasabi to sell in tubes, as well as in salad dressings, flavoured salts, pickles and even nostril-tickling chocolate. "In order to protect Japanese food culture," he added, "it is important to protect wasabi."
And did you know that:
The wasabi that comes in tubes and packets and is familiar to many diners is actually a blend of wasabi and horseradish dyed green — or contains no wasabi at all. In Japan, chefs at higher-end sushi, soba or grilled beef restaurants grate fresh wasabi at the counter, so customers can experience the acute assault on their nostrils and the unique flavor that lingers for just a moment on the tongue.
‘A Sense of Crisis’ for Wasabi, a Pungent Staple of Japanese Cuisine (Published 2022)
Climate and demographic threats are chipping away at a centuries-old culture surrounding the cultivation of the fluorescent green plant.
www.nytimes.com