There are also plenty of places only for women--I would actually guess these to be as common if not more common than ones exclusively for men.
Today I had two orientations, one for my graduate school and one for the japanese classes I will be taking, so I will share a bit more about my situation. I will stress however that each university will be different and each graduate school within a university will be different. At my graduate school, for example, most of the classes are taught in English, we decide our advisor after studying here for awhile (it could but doesn't have to be the professor who filled out our LOAs), class size/assignments etc are dictated by the professor, etc. My point is that there will be many things that will vary a lot between schools, so when you read my experiences, please keep that in mind.
Anyway, I have to take at least one class in my graduate school and can take up to 10 classes per year. If I become a degree seekign student, I can apply up to 5 classes to my master's/phd, so I plan on taking two or 3 courses this semester and then using those when, hopefully, I begin as a degree student next semester. I do not think I will be doing any research on my specific project this semester--just taking regular courses and japanese courses.
Auditing classes is taking classes without actually receiving grades. I assumed I would be doing that but it looks like I will actually be receiving grades for them.
As for Japanese classes, after getting the scores from our placement test, I got a big book of classes that I am allowed to choose from. At my school, there is not set schedule if you are above a certain level, so I get to choose when, how many, and what kind of classes I want to take. I will probably take no kanji classes, no writing classes, one reading class, a pronounciation class, a couple of listening and speaking classes, and then some themed electives. Looking forward to all of those.
I will be packing my schedule to make myself busy and take advantage of all the opportunities here. But you could very very easily not do that. I would only be required to take one class at my graduate school, could get away with maybe 5 hours of japanese classes per week, no research, and have no problems. That would be the minimum requirements (at my school, remember yours may be very different).
It looks like eventually I will be part of a research team, probably doing my own specific research related to a large group theme. I am not sure about that though.
Tonight I will be reading through the course catalogs and trying to figure everything out....