【Shio-buri market】 A year-end tradition that has continued since the Edo period—New Year's dishes with good fortune from the Hida region, Takayama City, Gifu.
December 24, 2024 - Chukyo TV News
At the wholesale market in Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture, the traditional year-end "Shio-buri Market," which has been held since the
Edo period, took place, and the lively auctioneers' voices echoed through the air.
"Shio-buri" originated in the Edo period when, due to the lack of refrigeration, yellowtail caught in Toyama Bay was salted to preserve it and transported to the Hida region to be eaten as part of the New Year's dishes.
This year's yellowtail, with a bountiful catch not seen in 15 years, had a good fat content, and some were priced at around 180,000 yen for those weighing over 10 kilograms.
Luxury Fish, Tiger Pufferfish: Bountiful Catch Leads to "Fugu Rice" in School Lunches, While Salmon Roe Prices Soar... Osechi Ingredients in Crisis (December 26, 2024)
Large Haul of Tiger Pufferfish off the Coast of Fukushima, Leading to "Fugu Rice" in School Lunches; Prices of Salmon Roe Skyrocket... Osechi Ingredients in Crisis (December 26, 2024)
A massive catch of tiger pufferfish is currently being landed off the coast of
Fukushima Prefecture, with the catch volume 18 times higher than it was 15 years ago. At the same time, the prices of seafood essential for New Year's osechi dishes are soaring.
Tiger Pufferfish Catch 18 Times Larger: Fisherman Says, "East to Soma"
Known as the "king of pufferfish," the tiger pufferfish has seen a sharp increase in landings of wild fish off the coast of Fukushima in recent years. At the auction house in Soma City, Fukushima, tiger pufferfish were lined up in abundance.
The fish are sold for around 5,000 yen per kilogram, with 70% of the catch being shipped to Tokyo's Toyosu, Osaka, and Kyoto. Annual sales now exceed 130 million yen.
Fisherman Masahiro Ishibashi
"Before, catching even one or two tiger pufferfish a year was considered rare. The types of fish we catch have changed, and now this is the current situation off the coast of Fukushima."
The catch of tiger pufferfish off Fukushima's coast was less than 2 tons 15 years ago, but it surged to around 30 tons between 2021 and 2023.
Ishibashi
"We hope to make it a major consumption area, like the west in Shimonoseki and the east in Soma, Fukushima."
Local fishing cooperatives and tourism associations have been branding the wild tiger pufferfish from Fukushima as "Fukutora" to promote its market presence.
A local kaiseki (traditional multi-course meal) restaurant that has been serving pufferfish dishes for around 40 years switched to using only wild tiger pufferfish from Fukushima's waters about five years ago.
Koji Suzuki, Owner of Kaiseki Yamashita
"Wild pufferfish needs to be this thin, as it has a strong, chewy texture. The flavor is unique and irresistible. Once you taste it, you'll want to eat it again. For those who want to experience the true taste of pufferfish, I think coming to Soma is the best option."
So Many Caught, "Fugu Rice" Served in School Lunches
Last month, tiger pufferfish appeared on the menu of school lunches in 13 elementary and junior high schools in Soma City. Around 3,000 servings of "fugu-meshi" (pufferfish rice) were served to students, made by simmering bones to create broth, adding the fish meat, and seasoning with soy sauce and mirin.
Additionally, local seafood processors who have obtained pufferfish chef licenses are making products such as pufferfish hot pot sets, fried pufferfish, and sashimi.
Takuya Mori, Representative of Loop Foods
"Bringing wild pufferfish closer to everyone. Now it's more accessible for people to try."
Processed products are sold at markets near the port, attracting customers from outside the prefecture as well.
Customer from Miyagi Prefecture
"We came from Miyagi to buy it. It's caught nearby, so it's fresh, and we really wanted to try it."
Customer from Yamagata Prefecture
"We came for the pufferfish. We thought if we wanted to eat the best, we would have to go to Yamaguchi or Tokyo."
According to the Fukushima Prefecture Fisheries and Marine Research Center, the surface water temperature off the coast of Fukushima has risen by 2°C over the past 50 years.
Yoshiharu Nemoto, Deputy Director of Fukushima Prefecture Fisheries and Marine Research Center
"The Kuroshio Current, which originally passed near Fukushima, has been shifting northward and has now reached the area off Sanriku. This has raised the water temperature along Fukushima's coast."
While pufferfish used to be mainly caught in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the rise in ocean temperatures due to global warming has led to an expansion of their habitat, with large hauls now being made off Fukushima.
Salmon Roe Prices Skyrocket; "In 10 Years, We Might Not Be Able to Eat It"
While the tiger pufferfish catch has surged in Fukushima, the price of "ikura" (salmon roe) is soaring, creating concerns for the upcoming New Year.
Takashi Morikawa, General Manager of Hichikyo, a restaurant in Sapporo
"To be honest, I'd like to increase the price by 1.5 to 2 times, but we're trying to keep the price hike as minimal as possible."
At this restaurant, which uses 10 kg of ikura per day, the price of ingredients has risen 1.5 times compared to last year, and the popular "Tsucco-meshi" rice bowl will increase by 1,190 yen starting this month.
The sharp rise in ikura prices is due to a historic shortage of autumn salmon caught off
Hokkaido. Last month, salmon catches were only about 80% of last year's amount.
A seafood processing company in Erimo Town, Hokkaido, which makes salted salmon popular for New Year's gifts, is also feeling the effects.
Koji Kasashima, Section Chief of Maruden Erimo Factory
"Normally, we'd process about 2,000 fish, but this year, due to the lack of fish, we're only able to process about 1,000."
The salted salmon production, which typically continues until the end of December, ended early this year in late November due to a shortage of fish.
Customer
"Ikura and herring roe are expensive, and sashimi is pricey too. Our New Year's food costs are going to be cut back."
Similar concerns have been raised by customers at ikura-don (salmon roe rice bowl) specialty stores in Tokyo.
Shinya Kawamo, Owner of Ikura-don "Nami no"
"I predict that in the near future, ikura prices will continue to rise, and in 10 or 20 years, we might not be able to eat it anymore."
Ten years ago, a high-end ikura-don made with Hokkaido salmon cost 680 yen, but prices have continued to rise, and it is now being offered for 2,750 yen.
Rising Seafood Prices... Osechi Costs on the Rise, Hitting Consumers' Wallets
These price hikes are also affecting New Year's osechi dishes.
Tetsuya Uesugi, Head of Sales at Bell Foods Service
"We manufacture osechi here."
At a factory that makes about 63,000 osechi sets for major department stores and online sales, prices for essential osechi ingredients like salmon and ikura have risen.
Uesugi
"Salmon, ikura—these items have been rising in price. Especially ikura, which has doubled in cost."
The cost of salmon has risen by about 30%, and eggs, impacted by bird flu, have gone up by about 60%. As a result, the price of osechi sets will increase by about 3% to 5%.
To mitigate these price hikes, they had contracted to purchase ingredients in bulk last year, hoping to keep costs down.
Uesugi
"We want to make it as affordable as possible for consumers. We've been doing our best to keep costs down, but it's a very tough situation."
(From the "Hatori Shinichi Morning Show" broadcast on December 24, 2024)