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Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae

Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae is made with Hidahomare rice grown in Gifu and milled to 65%. It is brewed slowly at low temperatures in a traditional three-stage brewing process using soft water from the Yoro mountain range.
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Sake specs

Prefecture
Gifu (岐阜)
Rice type
Hidahomare (ひだほまれ)
Polishing rate (semaibuai)
65%
Alcohol content
16%
SMV
+2
Acidity
1.3
Amino acid level
1.2
Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵)

Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵) is made of Hidahomare rice grown in Gifu and milled to 65%. It is brewed slowly at low temperatures in the traditional sandan jikomi (三段仕込) three-stage brewing process using soft water from the Yoro mountain range. The silky mouthfeel with a gently spreading umami flavour is the essence of soft-water brewing. After bottling, the sake is left to mature slowly before shipping. It is very versatile and can be enjoyed at all temperatures.

Centipedes, like dragonflies, were regarded as 'winning insects' and have long been considered good luck charms. Many Sengoku samurai used them as symbols on their flags and helmets, as centipedes only advance but never retreat (as they cannot walk backwards). Centipede legs also symbolise the legs of many customers and are therefore associated with prosperous business.

Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵) Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵) Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵) Gyokusendō Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae (無風 純米酒 別拵)

About the brewery

Brewery
Gyokusendō Shuzō
Name in Japanese
玉泉堂酒造
Address
800-3 Takada, Yoro, Yoro, Gifu 503-1314
Phone
0584-321-155
Website
gyokusendo-logo.png
Gyokusendō Shuzō (玉泉堂酒造) is located in Yōrō (養老), Gifu Prefecture, an area long associated with abundant spring water and sake production. The brewery traces its origins back to Bunka 3 (文化3年, 1806), during the late Edo period , while the present company structure was formally established in 1934. Today, the company produces not only sake, but also shōchū, mirin, liqueurs, spirits, and whisky.

The brewery is near the Yōrō mountain range and the famous Yōrō Falls (養老の滝), a site closely associated with one of Japan's best-known legends of filial piety. According to the Yōrō legend (Yōrō Kōshi Densetsu 養老孝子伝説), water from the falls turned into sake for a devoted son caring for his elderly father. The area later became associated with auspicious spring water, and historical records state that Emperor Genshō (元正天皇, 680–748) visited the region in 717. Tradition holds that the era name "Yōrō" was adopted following this imperial visit and the local spring water's reputation.

Water remains central to the brewery's identity. Gyokusendō uses exceptionally soft underground water flowing from the Yōrō mountains, a feature that strongly shapes the character of its sake. The softness of the water allows for slow, low-temperature fermentation, contributing to the brewery's refined, elegant style, particularly in its ginjō sake.

In 1957, the brewery adopted the company name Gyokugiku (玉菊). During the late Shōwa period, especially from the 1970s onward, it shifted its focus away from mass production and increasingly emphasised small-batch, hand-crafted brewing (tezukuri 手造り). At the same time, the brewery modernised parts of its production process, introducing advanced rice-polishing and washing equipment while maintaining traditional kōji-making methods in specialised kōji rooms (麹室 kōjimuro).

The brewery launched its Reisen (醴泉) label in 1987. The name "Reisen", meaning roughly "auspicious spring" or "sweet spring", was deliberately chosen to reflect both the region's historical water legends and the brewery's brewing philosophy. Reisen soon became the brewery's flagship premium line, known for carefully controlled fermentation and the use of high-quality rice, including top-grade Yamada Nishiki from Hyōgo Prefecture.

In 1989, the brewery introduced the Minōgiku (美濃菊) label, named after the historic Mino region of Gifu. The same year, Minōgiku won a gold medal at the National New Sake Competition, one of Japan's most prestigious sake contests. The brewery continued its success by winning consecutive gold medals from 1989 to 1992, helping establish its reputation among modern Gifu sake producers. Today, Gyokusendō Shuzō is regarded as one of Gifu Prefecture's leading breweries, balancing modern brewing technology with traditional craftsmanship while remaining deeply connected to Yōrō's water culture and history.

Latest reviews

Colour / hue
Pale Yellow
Clarity
Clear
While most people feel revulsion when spotting a centipede, I have always been attracted by these fascinating creatures. Except for the two instances when we had them in our futon at night. Anyhow, the image of a mukade on a sake bottle leaves a powerful impression. The brewery describes them as poisonous yet caring critters and uses the Chinese characters 無風 (mukaze, "no wind") in a wordplay on mukade, Japanese for "centipede".

Junmai Mukaze Betsukoshirae is made of Hidahonmare rice grown in Gifu Prefecture. Registered in 1982, this variety has large grains and low protein content. The Mukaze has a sweet nose of banana and pineapple. The first sip reveals an intense flavour of banana and strawberry, followed by a sweet alcoholic aroma and a herbal, earthy-tangy aftertaste with a spicy tingle. It is moderately dry and turns even sweeter as the temperature rises, with more fruits and umami emerging. It is exceptionally smooth and pleasing and deserves its stars.

The Mukaze brand features three other sake, all of them on our shortlist.

Mukaze
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sake information

Category
Junmai
Added by
JREF
Views
2,576
Watchers
1
Reviews
1
Last update
Rating
5.00 star(s) 1 ratings
Location
〒503-1314 岐阜県養老郡養老町高田800-3

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