Yamaguchi is often called the Kyoto of the West, though it's much more interesting than that — and it suffers from considerably less "tourism pollution." A compact city of about 190,000, it lies in a narrow valley between the Inland and Japan seas. With its impeccable gardens and its stunning five-story pagoda, Rurikoji Temple is a national treasure. The city's small winding lanes offer an assortment of experiences: pottery kilns like Mizunoue, situated on the grounds of Toshunji Temple; chic coffee shops like Log and Coffeeboy, and older-style options like Haraguchi; and wonderful counter-only shops that serve oden, or one-pot dishes. Just a 15-minute walk south is the hot-springs village of Yuda Onsen. Given the tourist crush in Kyoto, Yamaguchi has also been offering a smaller scale — but no less historic — alternative to Kyoto's Gion summer festival for some 600 years. Yamaguchi's Gion Festival, which features parades, costumes and dancing, also takes place in July; 2024 will be its first year operating again at full tilt since the pre-Covid era.