I seem to remember being transfixed by a coniferous tree on the avenue leading up to the shrine whose leaves looked like green tongues of fire. It was amazing!
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu is unbelievably rich in history and legends. A shogun was murdered on the very stairs that thousands of tourists climb every day. The Treasure House and the Kamakura Museum hold invaluable artefacts. But the shrine, as marvellous as it is, is just a glitzy portal into the much more complex and fascinating history of Kamakura. Most tourists don't venture further. Fortunately.