Beijing really depends on how you look around. . .
The first time I was with an ordinary tourist group, that was of course very colourfull, and if you get additional explanations, the fantasy is also called.
I knew quite a lot already, but must also say, that I was only partly charmed, but more, because I have seen other places before and all along the silkroad. Beijing seemed to be so far less Chinese at first sight than all the other places except for the sightseeing places (that I personally liked very much).
But I was wrong, because I happened to be there twice again on my own, although never more than one week, once even in winter.
Since I speak chinese, it was probably different for me anyhow and I always got fine contacts and thus tips, where to go.
Partly they were the families of friends, thus a kind of merry go round from one dinner to another, which means a lot of backstage, so to say.
Also when I stayed in a hotel a bit out of the center, I found an article in the papers about old parts of town, that were about to be torn down. Of course I went there immediately.
Going side streets is a habit from me and that also showed me a very different Beijing, plus a lot of parks, markets and special streets, where I could have stayed for whole days, discovering. Since the Chinese are very curios and also don't mind curiosity from foreigners, at least then, I had lots of interesting things to see and follow.
If you just go along the main streets, you miss a lot!
The "big" places were not necessarily of interest for me any more, although I personally still liked them very much. And modern Beijing was not what I was after, I simply skipped it, whenever I could, plus opened many shop doors to see what they had inside, and they always had a surprise! For me, shopping was cheap and big fun! But I also often knew what to look for and found it, be it in a bag in the back of the shop.
Many such places may not exist any more, I don't know, but according to my fotos later on, and I made a lot, it was very interesting! I just had my fun and learned to love Beijing after all.
Well, one has to learn to see and to make some contacts first maybe. I could also write a whole book of fine stories about this now. Speaking their language was surely a bonus too.
Also, like in Japan, several restaurants are not just outside or easy to find, I had the luck of being guided by locals, thus additionally learned about their preferences, apart from great privat invitations.
Not to mention several remarkable exhibitions, that I had the luck to visit.
But just an outside market street could already catch me for a long time discovering.
Or the different transport possibilities, also to the outsides of Beijing. Always an adventure! However rough at times.
I am still wondering about that old lady, that came out of a packed bus with a net full of eggs, all intact!! I have no idea, how she even got into that bus!
And one should not feel offended by any "mei you" (= don't have, not available), usually you just have to wait patiently and suddenly they "you"(=have). . .