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The Sake Appreciation Thread

While organic sake made its debut years ago, sustainability has reached the sake industry, too. On 20 October, Fukuju Brewery in Nada, Kobe, will release its Fukuju Junmaishu Eco Zero, the world's first sake with zero carbon dioxide emission in its entire production process. To achieve this, the brewery used 100% renewable energy and carbon-neutral city gas in the production. Also, a low rice polishing rate of just 70-80% assures that less energy is used, while dried yeast shortens the brewing period by seven days.

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I'm afraid this brew is not likely to make it into our Sake Review section unless we find a generous sponsor. :D

A Niigata brewery has released a premium sake for 330,000 JPY (2,400 USD) -- a set of two 720-millilitre bottles made from Koshihikari rice cultivated by hand and free of any agricultural chemicals and synthesised fertilisers.


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"飛騰 ASCENDING" and "燈火 ILLUMINATING"

The unusually high price tag reflects the commitment of three people from disparate industries who were determined to create through time and effort something of lasting value, especially in an age of mass production and consumption. Rice planting had just been completed when this reporter visited terraced paddy fields located deep in the mountains in Tokamachi, Niigata Prefecture in June. There were no weeds growing between the rice plants, although Hideharu Tobe, 70, does not use herbicides in the paddy, totaling 0.66 hectare in area -- or 6,600 square meters. He removes weeds regularly, using a wheeled vehicle. According to Tobe, the 0.66-hectare area is the largest manageable size for rice cultivation by manual work alone, yielding a crop of less than 60 percent of that which can be obtained from a conventional rice paddy of the same size.






Links:



 
Shimazaki Brewery in Nasukarasuyama, Tochigi Prefecture, uses an old cavern system which served as a tank production facility in WWII as a storage location for their daiginjo and koshu (matured sake). The underground shelter offers perfect conditions for the sake as it keeps out the sunlight, and the temperature is a constant 10°C.

Shimazaki Brewery in Nasukarasuyama


Shimazaki Brewery in Nasukarasuyama

Aged sake differs radically from its freshly pressed beginnings. It is far more robust, often heavy, musty and rich, and boasts deeper umami and earthy notes. Yet there's no agreement on what constitutes aged sake; sake buffs like to joke that the definition of koshu is that there's no definition. Against that backdrop, aging in a cave might seem like a marketing ploy to attract new customers, but Shimazaki claims it was the result of a careful search for the right conditions. Around 1970, the brewery first started experimenting with aging sake. By the mid-1980s, Shimazaki had dug a storage cellar, which maintained a constant temperature of around 15 C. This subterranean storeroom gradually filled up, so Shimazaki's father hit upon the idea of using a nearby cave located just 2.5 kilometers to the west of central Nasukarasuyama.



Tours of the caverns are available, too:

 
I'm afraid this brew is not likely to make it into our Sake Review section unless we find a generous sponsor. :D

A Niigata brewery has released a premium sake for 330,000 JPY (2,400 USD) -- a set of two 720-millilitre bottles made from Koshihikari rice cultivated by hand and free of any agricultural chemicals and synthesised fertilisers.


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"飛騰 ASCENDING" und "燈火 ILLUMINATING"








Links:




I would rather go to Aomori and ask the originals there to let me smoke there legal MJ.
 
Just a quick reminder: 1 October is World Sake Day !!

🍶🍶🍶

Autumn is the season for harvesting rice and sake brewing. Traditionally, sake brewers used to start the sake brewing season on 1 October. In 1978, the Japan Sake and Shochu Brewers Association (JSS) designated the day Sake Day to renew the passion for the sake and encourage more profound understanding and love for sake.



Let me get this straight: every day is a good day for sake. :)
 
And that's exactly what it needs to appeal to the younger generation: make it fun, classy, but not elitist à la French Bordeaux. (Though, I am not too fond of manga and anime characters on sake labels, lol)

I am just reading Tuttle's latest sake title (to be released in May) that features lots of young (and often female) toji who are very willing to experiment and combine the traditional with the innovative.

These are all OK ideas. The problem is the lack of research marketing and ad placement by media outlets For example, in Kansai, almost every other commercial is about nihonshu. Young Japanese people simply do not know how to enjoy sake. The only images they see are of old men slobbering all over each other and getting drunk and belligerent. Many young women are forever scared by this image, too. Kanto region is just all around poor at promoting the national beverage here. Most sake breweries tours are packed full of single male virgins in their 30s. The biggest turn off for the brand.
 
Then there is the price point. Most young men complain that sake is too expensive, and that they prefer happoshu so they can get hammered quickly
 
Happy Sake Day, everyone! :)

Last month saw several international awards and appraisals:


Here's the story of a Kanagawa-based brewery, Kikkawa Jozo, that was on the brink of bankruptcy and was saved at the last minute, to the delight of its fans.

Since 1912, six generations of the Kikkawa family combined the clear groundwater of Mt Oyama and carefully selected rice to create their sake, Kikuyu. But over the years tastes and demographics changed, and in 2020 they faced the very real danger of having to close the brewery, due to facing both bankruptcy and another common issue traditional businesses face, the lack of a koukeisha, or successor. It seemed like the sake brewery's proud tradition was at an end. Fortunately, the Shimada Group stepped in to preserve this legacy. While best known as a real-estate and hospitality powerhouse, Shimada's roots are actually closely linked to the world of sake, as the company began from a single rice shop.


And let's not forget: September/October is hiyaoroshi season! :)
 
According to Nikkei, sake and its fusty image are going the way of craft beer: young start-ups create funkier and fresher tastes, brewing sake with fruit and herbs and offering food-pairing in hopes of capturing a bigger market. Increasingly, overseas sake brewers are paying attention as Japanese companies seek opportunities for collaboration beyond the traditional domestic industry.

Not new at all, but some new start-ups started brewing doburoku—more info in our doburoku reviews.

More unorthodox, other breweries added fruit or tea aromas to their sake:

Haccoba, a startup based in Minamisoma, Fukushima prefecture, uses hops to add a citrus aroma and bitterness to its products. Librom from the southwestern Japanese city of Fukuoka uses mint, apples and grapes as ingredients. Happy Taro Brewery in the Shiga prefectural city of Nagahama uses fresh herb tea blended by Hiroshima Prefecture's Kajiya Farm in place of water to brew its low-alcohol doburoku, giving it a refreshing quality. Lagoon Brewery in the city of Niigata, which held an event in late October, makes clear sake characterized by a sweetness and sourness that recalls the taste of pears.


Another hope is the export market. There are thirty sake breweries in the US, representing more than half of all the sake breweries outside Japan.

In Japan, where domestic sales have been falling, local brewers are also hoping to capture some of that overseas market. But Kimura said, "In the U.S., there's the possibility that locally brewed sake may become the standard, rather than Japanese-made products."

Paywall alert:


Links:


Craft Sake Brewery Association:

Ine to Agave Brewery Akita:

Haccoba Craft Sake Brewery:

Happy Taro Brewery
 
The Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association is holding the second Sake Future Summit on 8 and 15 January from 8 am to 1 pm JST.

The Sake Future Summit is a recurring streaming event that brings together professionals and enthusiasts from across the sake, shochu, and awamori industries to talk shop and predict the future of these incredible drinks. As the world comes out of the Covid 19 pandemic and Japan reopens to international visitors, the world of sake and shochu continues to evolve with the creation of new flavors and the implementation of unique brewing and distilling techniques. This year, a wide range of guest speakers from across the globe join together to cover topics like sustainable brewing, revolutionary food pairing techniques, and how the combination of tradition and innovation is changing the face of sake in Japan and around the world. Sponsored by the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, Sake Future Summit 2022 will be held on January 8th and 15th, 2023, and the live broadcast will be made available for viewing on youtube following the livestream. The first Sake Future Summit was held on November 21st and 22nd of 2020. The archived live streams can be seen here.



Last year's streams can be found on YT. They are treasure troves for everyone with interest in sake.



 
The NYT on the recent sake boom in the US: the article highlights the cooperation between Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery, a 350-year-old brewery in Niigata Prefecture known for its high-quality sake, and Boulevard Brewing Company, a craft brewery based in Kansas City, Missouri, known for its innovative approach to brewing. The two breweries began their collaboration after a chance encounter between Imayo Tsukasa's CEO and Boulevard's brewmaster at a sake festival in Japan.

Sake produced in the United States accounts for a small fraction of the sake sold domestically. Most are imported from Japan, and wine importers have gotten in on the act. In New York City, Zev Rovine Selections, a natural wine specialist, and Skurnik Wines, a national importer and distributor, have added sake to their portfolios. The upward trajectory of sake sales has been mirrored at Skurnik, said Jamie Graves, who manages its Japanese beverage lineup. The jump in the last few years has been particularly noticeable in retail, as you might expect, given the restaurant shutdowns during the pandemic. "Retail sake exploded in 2020 and never disappeared," Mr Graves said. "It went from 15 to 20 per cent of our sake sales to 40 per cent, staying steady even after restaurants reopened."


 
More news on U.S. sake breweries. Asahi reported on Origami Sake based in Hot Springs, Arkansas. Matt and Ben Bell, who share the same family name but hail from different parts of Arkansas, learned from Nanbu Bijin in Iwate, where they regularly visited for technical advice and guidance.

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The company name was determined in the hopes of reminding consumers of sake brewers' craftsmanship via the refined form of paper art that is alike well known in the United States. The brewery's label showing such illustrations as a lotus and a thousand origami cranes was developed, so customers would easily be able to tell Origami Sake's products from those of other makers. Under the corporation's plan, 50,000 to 60,000 750-milliliter bottles will be produced this year. Japanese sake is currently available at few eateries or retail stores in the United States. Even at sushi restaurants, only a limited number of Americans consume luxury rice wine. "We will be making this area the center of sake brewing in the United States," said Matt. Their future goal is making 1 million bottles a year, as an increasing number of breweries have recently been put in place in the nation for sake production.


 
Sake news: Hakkaisan announced plans to increase production capacity tenfold in the U.S. with its New York-based partner Brooklyn Kura.


Hakkaisan, producer of a popular sake by the same name, will help Brooklyn Kura relocate and expand its New York operations this autumn. The Japanese company will send one of its own brewers to provide technical support to Brooklyn Kura and offer marketing ideas to promote the beverage in the U.S. The two companies are keen to ramp up sake sales in the U.S. Hakkaisan and Brooklyn, which formed a business and capital tie-up in 2021, will move operations to other floor of the current factory building in Industry City, a historic shipping, warehousing and manufacturing complex on the New York Harbor waterfront. Output is expected to increase tenfold. The expanded brewery will make sake using local water and rice. Initially, only Brooklyn Kura branded sake will be produced, but Hakkaisan labels will be considered in the future.


Paywall alert:


See our reviews of Hakkaisan's products:

 
Asahi Brewery in Yamaguchi Prefecture, famous for its Dassai ("Otter Festival") brand, opened a brewery in upstate New York with hopes of catering to local American tastes, launching a new bottle of the highest quality of sake at the new Dassai Blue Sake Brewery under the Dassai Blue line. It was the first time Asahi Shuzo opened a brewery outside of Japan.

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The sake maker is looking to boost its share of sales in the U.S. market and help cast off the alcoholic drink's current image in the nation as a food garnish. "Sake is only consumed in the United States as an accompaniment to Japanese food," said Sakurai. He visited the Yamaguchi prefectural government office on Sept. 15 to report the opening of Dassai Blue Sake Brewery to Yamaguchi Governor Tsugumasa Muraoka. Muraoka praised the move, describing it as "really great that Japanese sake is so highly evaluated that they will be aggressively shipped all over the globe." A ceremony on Sept. 23 at Dassai Blue Sake Brewery heralded its introduction, with 450 officials from regional liquor shops and restaurants reportedly invited to try Dassai Blue. The brewery is a two-hour drive from New York City. Covering an area totaling 62,400 square meters, the plant is outfitted with a rice mill and brewing equipment among other implements. Its output comes to 1,260 kiloliters. Brewery tours and sampling sessions are available at the establishment, too.

 
Asahi Brewery in Yamaguchi Prefecture, famous for its Dassai ("Otter Festival") brand, opened a brewery in upstate New York with hopes of catering to local American tastes, launching a new bottle of the highest quality of sake at the new Dassai Blue Sake Brewery under the Dassai Blue line.
Since the article didn't say exactly where the brewery is, it is located in Hyde Park, NY, which is due north of New York City.

 
More sake news: 2023 is the last year sake revellers can taste the "All Shiga 32 Sakagura Korabo Junmaishu" (ALL SHIGA 32酒蔵コラボ純米酒), a collaboration of 32 breweries located in Shiga Prefecture.

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The project kicked off in 2015 is a joint effort by the association to bring together rival breweries to foster demand for sake.

But the Omi Sake Brewery Co. based in Higashi-Omi has decided to call it quits after 106 years in the business of brewing and selling sake, leaving the remaining 31 breweries to continue the project from next year onward. All the member breweries, including the Omi Sake Brewery, held a meeting on 25 August to discuss their approach for this year's special blend. Their latest offering was bottled on 8 September. The drink is mellow with a good scent but a relatively rich flavor and dry taste, according to the association. A 300-milliliter bottle is priced at JPY 680 (USD4.50), including tax.



 
Actually more people are drinking wine and really see that in your restaurants and it really you see the women drinking wine sake is like a hardcore drink for the diehards and all his bar sections around the inner cities but it's not really kicking off as I can tell either most people drinking beer and shuhi and wine.
 
Well, sake is definitely not a "hardcore drink," at least not more hardcore than wine. However, it is true that sake consumption in Japan has been declining:

According to a survey conducted in February 2022 in Japan, the only a minority of respondents drank sake at least once a week. While 4.4 percent of respondents consumed rice wine on one day per week, only 2.4 percent enjoyed the fermented alcohol on almost every day.


However, it is also true that sake exports are increasing. Consumption in China has been steadily surging, and there's a growing number of breweries in the US.

Beer and chu-hai are for guzzling, sake is fulfilment. :)
 
Fushimi in Kyoto is one of Japan's three most famous sake regions. Blessed with good water since ancient times, it prospered as the gateway to the Yodo River water transportation between Kyoto and Osaka in the Edo period. Kyoto, once again bustling with inbound travellers, is teeming with tourists who have developed a taste for Japanese sake.

The new "Kyoto Insider Sake Experience" tour, guided by 40-year-old Kotaro Hashimoto, who grew up in sake brewery-dotted Fushimi, is a great opportunity to learn about Kyoto's most famous breweries and taste their flagship products.

After learning about the background of sake and how it is made, we moved to his company's tasting room and savored seven different kinds of sake. Using slides, Hashimoto explained the characteristics of each sake as he proceeded with the tasting. He also provided snacks such as edamame, "shiba-zuke" pickles and roasted chicken. Hashimoto's commentary naturally extended to Japanese food culture. [...] Fushimi is famous for sake and has many breweries, but there were not many foreign tourists there. Hashimoto was not a sake lover to begin with, but once he started learning, he was able to choose the best-tasting examples and got hooked on its depth. He also became certified as an "international kikisake-shi," or sake sommelier.


Link:

Kyoto Insider Sake Experience
 
The Noto Peninsula Earthquake on 1 January killed over 230 people, injured almost 700 and destroyed some 11,000 buildings. It also affected the sake industry. The earthquake affected many sake breweries: five breweries were destroyed (including buildings, brewing facilities, and stock), while six reported structural damage and partial collapse.

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A local industry group that these manufacturers belong to has started to solicit donations for them, given the dire situation caused by the quake, which has left more than 230 people dead. The owner of one of the breweries said he has no choice but to "continue squeaking out a living" with no hope of rebuilding anytime soon. Their breweries are located in three of the four municipalities on the Sea of Japan coast in the hardest-hit Okunoto, or inner Noto, region, which is known for its distinct tradition of having top-level guilds of toji master brewers.

The powerful New Year's Day earthquake ravaged a remote central Japan region. It has left its famed, centuries-old sake-making industry facing the danger of losing some of the craftsmanship it has nurtured to produce quality brands. All the 11 main sake brewers in the northern part of the Noto Peninsula were severely affected by the magnitude-7.6 quake and have been forced to suspend their operations for at least a year -- with their futures left uncertain, particularly for five of them who saw their breweries destroyed. A local industry group that these manufacturers belong to has started to solicit donations for them, given the dire situation caused by the quake, which has left more than 230 people dead. The owner of one of the breweries said he has no choice but to "continue squeaking out a living" with no hope of rebuilding anytime soon. Their breweries are located in three of the four municipalities on the Sea of Japan coast in the hardest-hit Okunoto, or inner Noto, region, which is known for its distinct tradition of having top-level guilds of toji master brewers. Sake brands from Okunoto have long been a major speciality of Ishikawa Prefecture owing to the work of the guilds, reputed as one of Japan's four prominent toji alongside those in Hyogo, Niigata and Iwate prefectures. In the industry, the word toji means chief executive brewer, overseeing the sake manufacturing process. Those who work under toji executives are collectively called kurabito, workers skilled in sake brewing.Toji and kurabito in Okunoto have traditionally learned and honed their craft at breweries in Nada -- a famous sake-making district in Hyogo's Kobe area revered by many sake lovers as a "sacred place," and is known in and outside Japan due to being a popular tourism spot. But the devastation caused by the quake seems certain to affect the link between guilds of master artisans that have made Noto brands so special and could impact the entire culture of sake-making over the long term. Nakashima Shuzoten Co. in Wajima is one of the five brewers who suffered the most from the quake. Its original warehouse and store were unrecognisable, while the remaining sake sat under rubble in a tank. "My business had just started to get on an even keel," said Ryotaro Nakashima, 35, who was just 26 when he took over the brewery from his father after he died. Although the exact date they started is unknown, the Nakashima family has been in the sake business for over 350 years, from as early as the Kanbun era (1661-1673). For convenience, the brewery uses 1868, the beginning of the Meiji period, as the date the business was established, as the company's brewery report from that year is on record. Its signature brand, Suehiro, is characterised by its dry taste and rich aroma. Nakashima was home when the massive quake struck at 4:10 p.m. on Jan. 1. He rescued his mother from the collapsing house before evacuating. "The smiles on the faces of the people who drink with me are my support," he said, adding that he sleeps in a space near the house that barely avoids being damaged. "I'm just trying to survive. It's impossible to rebuild on my own. I'm at a crossroads now." Sakurada Sake Brewery Co. in Suzu, known for its traditional Taikei brand, also damaged all of the buildings on its property, including the store and the brewery. Roof tiles and broken glass were strewn about while the faint aroma of sake wafted in the air. The company had just been gearing up to resume sake production after repairing a mud wall that collapsed following a magnitude-6.5 quake last May. In a lucky turn of events, Hiroshi Sakurada, 52, the fourth-generation president, discovered that roughly half of the approximate 1,000 bottles in stock remained unbroken. "I had given up, so it made me happy," said Sakurada, who now is searching for ways to rebuild. Matsunami Brewery Inc. was another hard-hit facility in the town of Noto, where the Noto toji guild originated. Like its rival breweries in the area, the company had been busy with its plans. The owner, Seiko Kinshichi, 48, had been trying to ramp up production by opening sales channels overseas behind the popularity of its Oeyama brand, which has more than 150 years of history. "We've lost too much," said Kinshichi, who also had to close the company's online sales service. In normal times, locals participate in sake production in the agricultural off-season and enjoy drinking at festivals and other events. One cultural tradition is to present people with two large 1.8-litre bottles of locally brewed sake in specially gift-wrapped boxes in times of celebration or condolence. While the secondary evacuation has got underway for quake-affected residents, who are headed for Kanazawa, the prefectural capital of Ishikawa and a major hub of the Hokuriku region, Kinshichi said she felt comforted by the messages of support she received for her business. "One message I got via an email from a person (in the sake industry) in Tohoku, said 'Don't give up.' That made me feel I must think carefully about the future," she continued. The prefectural federation of sake brewers associations has made clear that this year's shipments are all but doomed for brewers in Suzu and Wajima and those from Noto town. "We need assistance from the entire country to rebuild. We need your help," said Shigehisa Uratani, 68, the federation's managing director.
© KYODO




Other organisations and institutions have also set up means to donate and support the breweries affected. More on Sake Industry news:

 
The Noto Peninsula Earthquake on 1 January killed over 230 people, injured almost 700 and destroyed some 11,000 buildings. It also affected the sake industry. The earthquake affected many sake breweries: five breweries were destroyed (including buildings, brewing facilities, and stock), while six reported structural damage and partial collapse.



A local industry group that these manufacturers belong to has started to solicit donations for them, given the dire situation caused by the quake, which has left more than 230 people dead. The owner of one of the breweries said he has no choice but to "continue squeaking out a living" with no hope of rebuilding anytime soon. Their breweries are located in three of the four municipalities on the Sea of Japan coast in the hardest-hit Okunoto, or inner Noto, region, which is known for its distinct tradition of having top-level guilds of toji master brewers.






Other organisations and institutions have also set up means to donate and support the breweries affected. More on Sake Industry news:

The elementary and junior high school resumption damaged sake brewery which "felt relieved" of earthquake disaster three weeks Noto from Miyagi support [super J channel] (January 22, 2024)

■The brewing shop of sake brewery "unrefined sake" Miyagi rescues it

The sake brewery of same Noto-cho has the support from the prefectural inside and outside, too, and revival advances little by little.

"Kazuma brewing" to have the receiving a prize experience in a global contest. The floor cracks, and a bottle is broken. If is true, this time is time to ship young sake, but ...

Head of Kazuma brewing management section Kazuma Shihori
"This place was a place to originally ship it to, but sludge gets from such a place" and

"The unrefined sake" which there was under the sake to let liquor rice ferment, and to make got out of trouble, but ... untouched as for the "unrefined sake" under the influence of an earthquake for two weeks.

Head of Kazuma brewing management section Kazuma Shihori
When "fermentation advances (the unrefined sake) too much, I cannot keep good quality as liquor"

Therefore it is "the new Sawa brewing shop" of Miyagi where what I offered rescue of "the unrefined sake" to came across in the commendation ceremony of the overseas competitive show. I lengthen a hose from the small window of the room with the second-floor "unrefined sake" outside and I move it to the tank of the truck and rescue it.

Head of Kazuma brewing management section Kazuma Shihori
As "I have experience of the Great East Japan Earthquake, to take very precise advice, and to aim at, anyway, one doing sake brewing. After all when it is a sake brewer. We felt eye-opening there that we must work as a sake brewer"

The new Sawa brewing shop is destroyed completely by the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011 and has the experience that restored from there.

New Sawa brewing shop executive director Kentaro Sugihara
As "I realize very hard, and the thing which lavished great care very hard for time felt the bitterness that there is nothing as for us until one liquor is done for labor and time at the time of Great East Japan Earthquake very much, as for thinking to want to squeeze unrefined sake as soon as possible, it is revealed. It is such a form that, by the way, I helped with only a little"

The new Sawa brewing shop narrows down the unrefined sake which I collected to refined sake, and it is said that I do it to a bottle.

Head of Kazuma brewing management section Kazuma Shihori
"It is hard to be true. As the Kazuma brewing uses the gross quantity rice from Noto and similarly a farming family is various places suffered from and says, "do not stop sake brewing" because, meanwhile, I will make rice in the same way next year, I think that you must do sake brewing
 
Omi Railway Corporation in Shiga Prefecture started operating a sake-themed excursion train on 27 January for passengers to try local favourites. The "Omi no Jizake Densha" (臣の地酒電車, Omi local sake train) service is the company's annual offering to entertain riders with locally brewed sake and regional specialities while they enjoy the passing scenery. The service will run once a day on weekends and holidays for a fortnight until 3 March. It will offer sake from 11 local breweries across the prefecture, including Tomita Shuzo Inc. in Nagahama. The sightseeing service will accommodate 72 passengers for 7,500 JPY/ (USD 51) each.


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Photo credit: Asahi - Takumi Fujii


They will be treated to 12 sake brands, with one label replaced daily, and a bento lunch box made with local specialities from the prefecture, such as roast beef prepared with Omi beef. The train will make a round trip between Hikone and Yokaichi stations, leaving Hikone Station at 3:49 p.m. Meanwhile, the train will be operated as a premium service between Feb. 23 and 25, offering 22 sake brands and more food options while running for an extra hour. Carrying up to 54 passengers for 15,000 JPY per person; the premium service will make a round trip between Hikone and Omi-Hachiman stations, leaving Hikone Station at 3:08 p.m. Each service will come with a one-day pass for Omi Railway lines.


 
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