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japanese clothing (during the meiji restoration)

Hobbit_Marco

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16 Mar 2004
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Hi, I've seen a anime serie called rurouni kenshin. I don't know that everything in kenshin true, but I know the clothing and stuff like that was pretty accurate.

(I'm hoping at least some of you will be fammiliar with kenshin)

Anyway, you have all these samurai and ninja running around. And I like the outfits they wear. I would like to make one myself (for larp purposes, and just for myself to have ^^ (larp = running around in a forest with foam/latex swords and costumes , basically fighting with these weapons wile you try to follow some kind of storyline)).

So, I want to have a costume like the ones they wear in kenshin.
I like the shinsengumi outfit. As far as I can tell they wear hakama and a hoari (that's the thing called right? the thing with the blue and white). But under the haori, they wear something that looks like the top of a kimono. I would like to know how it works exactly with the sleeves. Does this top kimono-part has some kind of sleeves under the haori?
You can alse see those white ropes, hanging over their back and on their chest. What is their purpose, where are these connected?
(I'll add pictues on the bottom of my post, don't pay attention to the subtitle's)

If someone could help me, I'd greatly appreciate it ^^.
If anyone is willing to help me more, to more or less describe each part of the outfit, tell me how it's made and so on. I'll appreciate it even more. maybe someone who has made this kind of costume before?

I'm interested in any kind of costume from this time period, so if someone has some more info on those, sites, photos etc. I wouldn't mind knowing about them.
 

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In my limited kimon experience, you are correct.

The thing you see under the haori is a kimono. It is a full kimono, probably running down all the way to the ankles (but if you are going to be doing a lot of running, and making your own, perhaps a mid-thigh modification will allow for more freedom of movement. No one has to know...).

The sleeves of the kimono fill the sleeves of the haori as well. However, I am tempted to say they are in happi, which is also a kind of jacket. A happi and a haori are kind of like a sport coat and a suit coat. Haori are usually closed at the front by a big fancy knot and are reserved for fancy occassions.

Could have been different back then, as clothing styles and use change over time.

I have no idea about the cords. They are not part of any modern kimono kit I have experience with. They wouldn't be holding up thei hakama, and the tie is all wrong for holding back sleeves (in such a case the cords would be fully under the happi/haori. There is no reason you could not have them on your costume though.

I will help you with some searches on the Internet for sewing patterns and sites if I get a free second.
 
I guess I can't a full kimono, I mean, they have to move around alot with those swordfights. I doubt if they could do that with a full kimono.
The sleeves of the upper-part of that kimono, I can make them just normal sleeves (like the one on a sweater)? Those wide sleeves that hang down would be strange if you wear another shirt (haori) over it.

Those ropes still are a mystery, hmm. I will do more research to find out their purpose when I have the time.

Another question, what kind of cloth could this be made of? cotton? (I'm not much of an expert on this). I think it would've been kinda thick cloth, that way it's more durable.

If you can find sewing pattern or other stuff, plz do.
Thnx very much for your post Mandylion ^^
 
I'll look if you will too :)

I woud say you should go for cotton, mainly because of the cost and trouble silk would cause you. Too thick and you will having trouble getting a full range of movement, so go for something midrange.

Historically, they probably would have been in full kimono, though there were other outfits for warriors too. You can run in a kimono if you have hakama on (though I have never had to manage more than a very fast shuffle when working behind the scenes at tea ceremonies) and still prevserve a hint of decency.

You could just make normal sleeves on your outfit, but since the kimon sleeves fit perfectly in the haori/happi sleeves, it is not strange at all. It would just be like putting a western jacket on over a sweater.

The closer you can get to the real deal, the more authentic it will feel. You just need to decide what your needs are. Have fun!
 
I something called a hakamashita. It's a kimono, but the bottom part is shorter and is split on the back (see picture attached). I think I'm going for that one. Easy movement with the hakama, and it less cloth then a full kimono ^^.
I also think I'm going for something a little simpler than those shinsengumi outfits. I'll go with the costume kenshin usually wears. Wich'll be on of those hakamashita and a hakama, and those hand/arm-protector things.
It would be nice if I could find those socks and slippers to go with it, I think it would look kind of stupid if I wore that kind of outfit with my normal shoes ^^.

I would like to ask something else. The hakama have those holes on the left and right. Why do they have them, it's just a hole, so it can't be a pocket right?

Another question, It seems you know something on japanese clothing ^^ So I hope you'll be able to answer. (and you are the only replier yet).
It's about those knots on the back of a kimono.
You have a kimono, then you put around a big flat belt (obi?) and if I remember correctly, you put around another smaller belt.
Anyway, those belts sometimes have those wonderfull ties on the back. But if you want to wear a hakama, do you still have those knots? If so, the hakama will be worn below the knot I presume?
And I've read those knots can be quite complicated. I would like to believe that, but I also like to believe someone who is not a total stupid will be able to do them with some practice.
BTW, do men actually have those elaborate ties to, or is it a woman-only thing? (/me hopes men can have them to, cause I like them)

What are your comments, insights?
 

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modern day hakamas
http://www.uinet.or.jp/~hagiwara/whatnew_2.html

男のきもの大全 | 袴

for male, for the ceremonial thing, formal type

last pictures right one said for samurai type, left one smock-frock version

seems samurai nobles in 13c needed helper to wear
 
Hobbit_Marco said:
I something called a hakamashita.
Good idea. Makes more sense to me

Hobbit_Marco said:
The hakama have those holes on the left and right. Why do they have them, it's just a hole, so it can't be a pocket right?
There are a few different types of hakama. I don't know the technical term and I am too lazy to go look it up right now, but rest assured you could make a hakama without two holes for the legs and you won't be breaking any taboos. Hakama for the martial arts often require you to have a divided hakama, but there are formal hakama that can be either way. I have a formal set, similar to the stripped one Ohayogozaru kindly found for us. In fact, that link (the fourth one down) shows you what I'm trying to say (picture about the middle of the page)

Hobbit_Marco said:
You have a kimono, then you put around a big flat belt (obi?) and if I remember correctly, you put around another smaller belt.
You are a guy right? If that is so (or you want to wear a male style kimono like the characters you posted) you don't need the "smaller belt." Some multilayered kimonos will have ties to hold things on, but only one "obi"

Male obi are much, much narrower than female obi. I'm thinking about 5 inches off-hand for a male, while a womans obi will cover much of her abdomen and gut (not that they have guts, but it has been a long day) and almost to the bottom of the bust line

Hobbit_Marco said:
Anyway, those belts sometimes have those wonderfull ties on the back. But if you want to wear a hakama, do you still have those knots? If so, the hakama will be worn below the knot I presume?
And I've read those knots can be quite complicated. I would like to believe that, but I also like to believe someone who is not a total stupid will be able to do them with some practice.
BTW, do men actually have those elaborate ties to, or is it a woman-only thing? (/me hopes men can have them to, cause I like them)

If you want to wear a hakama you need those knots! There is a little plastic thing about 4 inches long at the back of a hakama that tucks between the body and the obi. Look at the third picture in the fourth link from Ohayo-san. The man is wearing a white obi and you can see it peeking out between the hakama ties. The knot is under his hakama. You can see the bulge in the fabric right below the quadrangle-looking thing on the small of his back (this is a hard bit of cardboard - women's hakama's don't have one). The knot is there, you just don't see it. the hakama is worn over the knot and over the obi. The obi holds up the hakama.

There are a few different ways to tie an obi. This is in Japanese, but the pictures will walk you through one method (remember to click on the green square at the bottom right to go to the second page). I personally use a knot that stands out more from the body and is more formal. Men get elaborate ties, but if you wear a hakama, you will not see them. Since you are wearing a partial kimon anyway, unless you are shorts you will need hakama 😲

Tying takes some practice and it is best to get someone to show you. I'll poke around on the net and see if I can find any but don't hold your breath :sorry:

Also, if you go to www.altavista.com and click on translate, you can enter the url of a site in Japanese and it will roughly, very roughly, translate it into English for you.
 
This is good for how to tie a hakama final knot. You will notice they are cheating and using a obi for martial arts rank and not the obi we are talking about. But that final knot in the hakama cord is something you should try for. There are easier ones. http://www.bujindesign.com/use_hakama.html#tie

How to make a kimono Yahoo | Mail, Weather, Search, Politics, News, Finance, Sports & Videos

Period costume - http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/japanese/briefhistory.html

Sorry, no obi sites better than the one I already listed.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobbit_Marco
The hakama have those holes on the left and right. Why do they have them, it's just a hole, so it can't be a pocket right?



try doing sword manuevers that require lowering your center of gravity in blue jeans and you will understand.
 
hi,
If want to have a costume like the ones they wear in kenshin then you can take help this
i hope it will helpful for you.
thanking you.
 
What a brilliant bump :3
Read the manga Kaze Hikaru, the mangaka did a lot of research on the costumes of the Shinsengumi for the series, and she discusses it in detail.
(shameless promotion:sick:)
 
I like Japanese clothing style. The traditional forms of japanese clothes in general is called wafuku. It has different categories like Yukata, Kimono, Haori, Hakama and many more. But my favorite clothe is Haori which is short silk jacket.
 
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