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Finding the right name and translation for these coats!

Eijiro

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Hello everyone,

I've been browsing through the internet and came across a few coats that were used back in Edo/Meiji era. I'm not sure if it's still being made today but these majestic coats caught my heart. Winding up in a dead end. Websites refer to them as Dochugi, Dotyugi, or Michiyuki. Here's a picture of the elusive "name of the coat here". Thank you everyone!
 

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Eijiro

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Hi Everyone, I found another picture. But is there a proper term for these coats? Most of the names I've come across seem to point to the modern women's haori-like-coat. These coats were often worn when travelling based from the descriptions.
 

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Toritoribe

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Those are both 道行 michiyuki. As you can see in the following picture, michiyuki (the right one) and 道中着 dōchūgi/douchuugi (left) are different in the shape of the collar and the way of fastening it. Michiyuki is more formal.


Incidentally, the following picture is haori. This is more likely jacket rather than coat.


These cloths are still used now, of course.
 

Eijiro

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Those are both 道行 michiyuki. As you can see in the following picture, michiyuki (the right one) and 道中着 dōchūgi/douchuugi (left) are different in the shape of the collar and the way of fastening it. Michiyuki is more formal.


Incidentally, the following picture is haori. This is more likely jacket rather than coat.


These cloths are still used now, of course.

Thank you for the reply Toritoribe-san! Do you know if Men's Michiyuki/Dochugi are still common?
 

Toritoribe

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Unlike for women, both michiyuki and dōchūgi are not common for men nowadays. Haori is used for formal situation, and another types of coat トンビコート tonbi coat(left) or 角袖コート kakusode coat(right) is used for outdoor coat.
 

Eijiro

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Unlike for women, both michiyuki and dōchūgi are not common for men nowadays. Haori is used for formal situation, and another types of coat トンビコート tonbi coat(left) or 角袖コート kakusode coat(right) is used for outdoor coat.
Oh! Glad to be able to find out more about these coats. They're very similar to each other and formal as well. I do personally love the casual look of the 16-18th century Michiyuki, although it may be the "traveler/wanderer" version which is less produced (or not at all anymore, assuming.) as the other variation.

Thank you for the information and knowledge Toritoribe-sama.
 
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Eijiro

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半合羽(Han kappa)
半合羽
Late Sengoku period an overcoat of a Christian missionary are origin.
This name originated from capa in Portuguese.

半合羽をつけた道中姿の町人 ・江戸時代・小袖の完成 日本服飾史 資料・風俗博物館〜よみがえる源氏物語の世界〜

Thank you for the reply and insight Hiroyuki-sama!

Is it an inspired foreign piece that was adopted in Japan back in Sengoku period till the Edo? Perhaps a combination or instead of Dochugi/Michiyuki? I shall further my research! Thank you very much!
 

Toritoribe

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Ooops! My bad. Thanks for the correction, Nagashima-san. :)
According to the site Nagashima-san provided, han gappa is older. It started using in the early Edo period.
Michiyuki was originated from 鷹匠合羽 Takajō gappa, i.e., coats for falconers. Michiyuki originally means "elopement". Since a popular kabuki character worn this coat in an elopement scene in a well-known story, this type of coat was called michiyuki in the late Edo period.
Dōchūgi was originally form clothes for travel.

歴史編8 南蛮風俗 – 着物あきない
 

Eijiro

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Ooops! My bad. Thanks for the correction, Nagashima-san. :)
According to the site Nagashima-san provided, han gappa is older. It started using in the early Edo period.
Michiyuki was originated from 鷹匠合羽 Takajō gappa, i.e., coats for falconers. Michiyuki originally means "elopement". Since a popular kabuki character worn this coat in an elopement scene in a well-known story, this type of coat was called michiyuki in the late Edo period.
Dōchūgi was originally form clothes for travel.

歴史編8 南蛮風俗 – 着物あきない
Ah, drastic events can change or even split paths! I've found a website (tailoring shop) that did show different cuts for jacket/coat ( 銀座もとじ ネットショップ / 男性のきものお仕立て/羽織・コート )
I wish I could understand more but most of the accurate information and presentation are lost in the translation. (Be hoping to learn Nihongo in a later year)
My purpose is to find shop websites that are selling these "Vintage/Antique coats". It is more to collect and to hang for it to continue its glorious days or even to wear if it persists. I'm very fond of history specially ones with humble origins but marked with importance. (as such in this textile topic. ie. tsumugi, boro, etc.).

Thank you for the clarification Toritoribe-sama.
 
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