This continues my previous diary entries and finishes the month of january 1983. The numbered comments and the comments in brackets [ ... ] are my recent comments. I have made no attempt to indicate long vowels in Japanese words. This system won't allow me to use macrons over vowels, and the alternatives strike me as generally ugly (e.g., "depaato").
24 Jan 1983 (Mon): Such a day, and before lunch even. I called Yokosuka and still couldn't get worthwhile directions to the Yokohama meeting. After a false start, I reached "Sam's" office, but he was in a meeting(1). I considered going out for coffee before calling again, but decided that it would take too long. Instead, I made coffee in the kitchen. The second time I called, I reached "Sam". His directions confused me, so he offered to meet me at Yamate Station. On looking at the map afterward, I discovered the problem. I decided that it was too late to go to the Kameido Tenjin Shrine to have lunch in the area, so I came to Ginza to have lunch at Darie(2). I tried to order a la carte, but they said it would take a long time. I had one of the lunch sets. The main course was "metiti", sort of a coarse-ground, homemade hot dog. Very good, though, as was the soup. The dessert was "papa..." something. It was a puffy, doughnut-shaped affair w/ a yogurt sauce jam. Yum! From there, I checked Matsuzakaya for a sit-down counter. No luck, but I did see a promising sushi-bento counter. Then to the Playguide for a ticket to this Saturday's Japan Philharmonic Sym. Orch. concert, having checked a poster in Yamano Music on the way. That finished my business in Ginza, and so, the Keihin Kyuko Line to Yokohama. This time, I managed to locate the Sotetsu Line (for trains to NAF Atsugi). While checking the subway station for extra stops (still no more), I saw yet another underground restaurant area (this place is getting out of hand!). There are some interesting places here. I decided to stop for coffee and notebook entries at Famous Coffees of the World, even though it's a shade pricey. The coffee is very good, though. Now to reconnoiter (quickly) Diamond Shopping Center and Porta. I did that and then took the Keihin Tohoku Line to Kannai Station. I walked to the Silk Center, passing the Opening-Port Memorial Hall (an interesting building--I hope I can get a photo or a postcard). I decided that I didn't have time to see the Silk Museum, so I got some maps at the Tourist Info. Office (no Yokohama Tour Companions) and went through the shops (bought postcards) and restaurants. I located the Silk Center Branch of the Chinese restaurant I wanted [Kaseiro] and they offer a dish I want, so I'll have supper there. I set off to see the Hikawa Maru(3), but on the way decided that I didn't have time to do that and eat supper in time to meet "Sam". Therefore, I stopped at Yamashita Park to write and take in the view. The Prawns w/ chili sauce at Kaseiro were tasty indeed. Afterward, I walked through Chinatown, where I saw lots of interesting shops and restaurants. I saw A Szechuan restaurant that was forbiddingly fancy. A bit later I saw a smaller, less fancy branch of the same restaurant (Chunking). From Chinatown I walked to Kannai Station and took the train to Yamate. I found a place to buy a small milk (to have with the goody I bought at the Kaseiro counter in the Diamond Shopping Center--I couldn't tell which one was the kind that used to be my favorite, but the one I picked was that one) and also bought a bottle (?) of "cafe au lait". "Sam" picked me up and we went to the meeting(4). Afterward, "Sam" took me and some of the Yokosuka Rehab people to Byobugaura Station (Keihin Kyuko). and so back to Hardy Barracks (none of the fruit stands were open).
(1) "Sam" is a retired U.S. serviceman I knew from the 1975-77 period. He was retired in Japan, working for the U.S. government in the port area. The department where he worked was listed in the U.S. Govt./Military phone book in a section where I wasn't expecting it to be.
(2) A Roumanian restaurant I knew from 1975-77 http://www.bento.com/rev/0780.html
(3) An early 20th-century Japanese passenger liner converted to a floating museum.
(4) This must have been the meeting in the hospital near the Foreigners Cemetery.
25 Jan 1983 (Tue): I got a late start today because I awoke late and changed rooms again (the two aren't related!). On the way to the subway, I bought stamps and am now exchanging travelers's checks to Yen at the Bank of Tokyo in Roppongi. If I waited until I get to Kameido to eat lunch,---I've changed my mind. This being Tuesday, the crowds shouldn't be anything extraordinary, even at lunch time. Even if the crush is too much, I'm sure I can get something away from the festival area. I did stop to have a cup of Kilimanjaro at Mikado, though. I got to Kameido easily. The walk to the shrine(1) was a bit longer than I expected, but no problem. Before anything else, I placated my appetite with a festival okonomiyaki. Then, I went to the shrine area proper and bought an "uso" bird(2). Some priests performed about 10-15 minutes of music, but I didn't see any of the pantomime dances Tour Companion mentioned. No big thing, though. While on the way out, I bought a pickled-plum-w/-sweet-syrup on a stick [a common festival snack item] and a bean bun. I noticed that the juice from the plum was staining my fingers, so I carefully wiped it all from my lips. there was a man making some sort of cookie who caught my eye. They looked tasty, so I bought three. Then on the way back to the station, my eye was caught by a serious coffee shop. It seemed like a good time to make entries with a cup of Mandehling. From Kameido I went to the Yamatane Museum of Art(3), where I saw an excellent exhibition and bought more postcards.
(1) Kameido Tenjin, Kameido 3-6. The shrine is devoted to {Sugawara Michizane?}
(2) The word "uso" is a homophone which can mean a type of bird or a lie. The simple figurines are made of wood. the idea is to start buying the smallest in the series of increasing sizes (less than 10). When you finish buying the series, you are forgiven for the various lies you have told.
(3) The Kodansha Atlas indicates that this museum is now in Kudan-Minami 2-Chome. If it has indeed moved, it used to be in the Yamatane Building in Nihonbashi-Kabutosho on Eitai Dori. Yamatane Museum of Art
26 Jan 1983 (Wed): Well, my schedule of events for this afternoon is tentatively set (My event for this evening is firmly set--I have the ticket). I came directly to Shinjuku, where I am having a cup of Colombian at one of the two coffee shops I saw Sunday. The coffee is very good. At Nogizaka Station I checked the subway fare from there to Shinjuku. Since the combination Subway/train fare via Harajuku would cost at least \200, the subway ticket would save me at least \80 and only take a few more minutes. There isn't any rush at the moment. Going to Nogizaka meant that I couldn't buy stamps at the Roppongi post office. Maybe I'll be able to squeeze in a visit to another. The best-laid plans ... Isetan is closed on Wednesday. This isn't the first time a depato's [depato = department store] being closed has changed my plans. However, my trip to Shinjuku has hardly been wasted. I looked in Takano for Mary fruit jellies--didn't find any--they seem to carry mostly their own brands [this is, in fact, the case]. However, they do have an India tea Salon and other interesting things. My City didn't have a Mary's(1) counter that I could see (not surprising, actually), but they do have a serious coffee shop. I nearly went into Odakyu, but changed my mind and decided that I should get to a restaurant for lunch. While following an underground passageway around (near) the auto entrance/exit (it went in the direction I wanted to go), I discovered that it led to the Shinjuku Center Bldg.(2). What a place! More shops and restaurants. This was my stop for lunch--at Mövenpick, specifically. Excellent meal! (seafood au gratin lunch set) Their desserts were attractive, but I was full and wanted to wait a bit before having dessert. Rather than let things go too far before making entries, I stopped in one of the courtyards of the Shinjuku Center Bldg. Now to see if that passageway leads to the Mitsui Bldg. (Mandarin Palace Restaurant). The passageway isn't covered as far as the Mitsui Bldg, but it does go by there. It appears that the Mandarin Palace is no longer there. It's fortunate that I checked. From there to Odakyu HALC, where I finally found Mary's "50 fresh" jellies. I bought plum and apricot. After some cogitation, I decided to have dessert at Tucheim's, also in Odakyu HALC, a "Spaghetti-ice (cream) napoleon". Most tasty. Now, the subway to Akasaka Mitsuke. The exhibit at the Suntory Museum of Art was most worthwhile; many beautiful pieces. This is the first time I have seen items from Okinawa in any sort of pottery/porcelain/lacquer exhibit. I bought a catalog. From there to Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi(3). I think I saw the exhibit mentioned in Tour Companion (TC); there were some more impressive (and more expensive) pieces in a room next to the aforementioned exhibit. There was still plenty of time, so I went to a couple rooms nearby with paintings. One room had some especially interesting paintings by an artist named Fukuchi. NOTE: Go back soon and buy at least a couple of the Art Top magazines. After that, I did a bit of looking around, as I had done before seeing the exhibits. The stereo section was in a bit of confusion (rearranging going on), so it was difficult to see much of anything. It was getting close to closing time, anyway. The juice bar is where it used to be. I had a refreshing glass of melon. Then to Ueno for the concert. I looked at the display case of the restaurant by the Ueno Park exit of Ueno Station. Its prices were very reasonable. The restaurant may come in handy at a future date. The soloist in the Beethoven Violin Concerto was fair; I've heard better (his intonation frequently seemed off). The Symphony Fantastique was very good. I enjoyed hearing it again. From Ueno directly to Roppongi and supper at Vakhhos. The meal was excellent. I wish the kitchen were cleaner, though, and the staff just don't seem glad to see customers (unless it's a personal friend). And so, back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Mary Chocolates チョコレートをはじめとした洋菓子・スイーツのメリーチョコレート Japanese only
(2) Nishi-Shinjuku 1-25 http://www.tatemono.com/buil/eng/v-f.html
(3) This is the main/home store, sometimes referred to as Mitsukoshi honten ("original shop") in the notes. It's the only department store in Japan to get its name in a train/subway station, Mitsukoshimae ("in front of Mitsukoshi"). http://www.mitsukoshi.co.jp/corp/annual/2005-cp_p16_17.pdf
27 Jan 1983 (Thu): I'm getting a (slightly) late start because I spent some time talking to people in Yokosuka (at CFAY, Commander, Fleet Activities Yokosuka). I learned (more-or-less) what my job will be and that I can store things in the office. I'm now in Coffee Club Roppongi (CCR) for a cup of Mandehling. After several false starts, it's finally lunch time. The wares of Hosyo(1) were attractive, but I was more of a mind to try the mizutaki place(2) or sushi-ya near it. the "A course" at the mizutaki place turned out to be \3500 rather than \2500. The former price is more than I wanted to pay for lunch today. The sushi-ya has an appetizing nigiri zushi set, but it was closed. I then decided to try Borsalino. After a bit of looking I found it, only to discover that at 1159 it was not yet open. Since restaurants usually open late, I went elsewhere rather than wait for it to open. The sushi-ya was still closed (Thursdays seems like an odd closing day for a restaurant--perhaps it's only open in the evening), so it was lunch at Hosyo after all. From the menu, it appears that Hosyo has northern cuisine, which is good news. I had tenshin don and shu mai--very tasty. Then to Yokosuka via the Tokyu Toyoko line (to Yokohama) and Keihin Kyuko line. I was daring and changed to an express at Den En Chofu [between the Yamanote line and Yokohama] when I wasn't 100% sure of what I was doing. I made the correct moves, though. Once in Yokohama, I tried to cash my pay check at the Bank of Yokohama, but once again no luck. The China Coaster(3) is not at its old location. There is a promising serious coffee shop near the Golden Tiger [I don't remember where or what this was--it sounds like a sailor bar]. I was able to cash my pay check (to Yen) at the Windjammer [the old Enlisted Men's Club, replaced by the new on-base Club Alliance]. I looked in the A-33(4), but no SoundBurgers or Yashica FX-7s. No time to look for much of anything else. From there to CFAY Admin [a very short distance inside the Main Gate], where I met some people, left some things, and picked up part of my mail. I took a quick look around Shioiri Station(5). There is an attractive, but not a serious, coffee shop. I then saw a shop named Sasaya and thinking it might be the old Sasaya in a new location(6), came in for a cup of coffee (which I wanted anyway). If it is connected with the old Sasaya, it has changed to being primarily a restaurant--no straight coffee. The Vienna coffee is excellent, though. I will be leaving from Yokosuka Station [Yokosuka Line–Japan National Railways (JNR)], not Shioiri. My favorite sushi-ya (in Yokosuka) is still there [I don't remember which one this might have been or where it was–it couldn’t have been Genroku(7) Sushi, which wasn’t there in 1975-77]. There are three possible serious coffee shops on Sennichi Dori. Ryu-En [Chinese restaurant] is still there, but seems a shade pricey. The Korean restaurant is still there, as is the old tenpura-ya(8). Marui has a restaurant with reasonable prices, but no food floor or audio equipment(9). I didn't want to take time to look in another depato, so back to Tokyo. I went to the meeting and made arrangements to meet "Bob" on Saturday. There were as many (at least) false starts before supper as before lunch. Well, perhaps that's a bit of an exaggeration. I missed the bus while digging in my pocket for change, so I walked to Roppongi rather than wait ten minutes for another one. The wind wasn't blowing, so it wasn't bad [also, walking gave me a better chance to see what was on the way]. On the way to the Xing, I looked in the basement of the ROI Roppongi Bldg [on Gaien-Higashi Dori, Roppongi 5-5]. The Mizutaki place was closed. They must close at 2100. So, I chose Rasa Singapura for supper. The meal was excellent, but I was too ambitious and ordered to much food. I had to leave 2 of one dish and a few pieces of potato from the gado gado to save room for dessert. Afterward, to Hardy Barracks.
(1) That's the romanization they used, an old-fashioned one. The modern romanization would be Hosho.
(2) Close to or next to Hotel Ibis on Gaien-Higashi Dori in Roppongi 7-14. I don't think I ever learned the name of the place. It was one of those restaurants I had found in 1975-77.
(3) A bar run by a U.S. Marine retiree, Dick Hanna, and his Japanese wife. It was one of my hang-outs in the 1975-77 period, even after I quit drinking. It was not a hostess bar and they served food. It was on the Chuo Dori side of the
"sailor bar" district, commonly called "the Honcho" by Americans, because it was in the Honcho district. The China Coaster would have been in Honcho 1-Chome. The area closest to Chuo Dori would have been in Odakicho 1-Chome, but I don't know if there were any sailor bars with an Odakicho address. I never did find a new China Coaster. Once, I saw a van with something about the China Coaster parked in the Commissary parking lot on base, but Dick Hanna was nowhere around, and I couldn't wait around for him.
(4) An annex of the Navy Exchange--it carried imported goods in general, cameras, audio, and video equipment
(5) There are two Keihin Kyuko line stations in Yokosuka, Shioiri and Yokosuka Chuo. The former is on the Yokohama side of town and is serviced by local (black kanji) and tokkyu (red kanji) expresses. The latter is in the main business area and is serviced by locals, tokkyu expresses, and kaiso tokkyu (green kanji) expresses.
(6) The location I remembered was in the Chuo Dori/Sennichi Dori area, on the Yokosuka Chuo end.
(7) http://www.digitaljournal.com/news/?articleID=1977 In English
(8) The former may be a restaurant on Sennichi Dori which had a bovine sign with rolling eyes on the sidewalk out front. I've no idea what the latter may have been.
(9) The lack of food floors seems to have been standard with Marui stores. They seemed to concentrate on clothing.
28 Jan 1983 (Fri): I went directly to Ginza and had a Toarco Toraja in the Mitsukoshi coffee bar. It's as good as I remembered. While writing postcards, my pen ran out of ink, so after coffee I went up to stationery and bought another fine point blue pen. As long as I was in the vicinity, it seemed like a good idea to investigate the stereo equipment. They had some interesting systems I might use in a home off-base, but no SoundBurger. I suppose it will be necessary to go to Akihabara(1). But not today. Unless. As best I can determine from Tour Companion (TC), the stores in Akihabara close at 1900. That probably doesn't give me enough time after seeing the SKD(2). And so to Chikuyotei for lunch [probably learned about it from TC]. I found the block easily enough. the restaurant's name is in kanji, with no romaji(3), as I expected would be so. There was a building which I was fairly sure was Chikuyotei, but I had no way of being sure from anything on the building. If I had been carrying my Nelson character dictionary with me, I could have figured it out eventually. However, Nelson isn't the sort of thing one carried around [it's a big book]. Nelson wasn't necessary, though. As it turned out, there were two ladies from the restaurant standing outside and I determined from them that this was indeed the place. I suppose \2500 is the most I've ever paid for a simple unagi teishoku. On the other hand, it was quite possibly the best unagi I've ever had. Also, I discovered that Chikuyotei is popular with "important" people. Large limousines outside when I left(4). I took the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro because it wasn't much farther away then the Yamanote Line (Shinbashi Station) and I knew I would save a few Yen. Save a few here and save a few there and you have more to spend! Good lord, Sunshine City is a maze. I was already on the Marunouchi Line when I saw from the map that Higashi Ikebukuro on the Yurakucho Line would have been a better station to use [debatable, in actuality]. I found Sunshine City easily enough. I entered at the end opposite from the building with Sunshine Theater and it seemed like a longer walk to the "culture center" than it took to get from the station to the entrance I used. Also, there must be a better way to get from B1 to 4fl than the way I used. I felt pressed for time, though [? and didn't take time to find the best way?]. Perhaps I shouldn't have. This theater uses the new [to me] kanji for "toilet". If I can remember to write them down, I'll ask "Bob" what they mean ["otearai" - "(hon) hand-washing (place)"] Well, the elaborate sets are gone, but the SKD lives on (that wasn't an intentional rhyme). It was an excellent show, well-assembled (that probably isn't the correct verb, but it'll do for now) and well-performed. I hope they stay in business, even though I'll probably miss the elaborate sets and grand finales, at least for a while(5). I found the proper way, i.e., the elevator, to get from floor to floor. From there, to the Sunshine City Mitsukoshi (two stores in Ikebukuro?(6)). It isn't exactly crowded with customers. It looks fairly new. There was no coffee bar in the basement (it doesn't seem to be a full-sized depato). However, on 4fl, I found a coffee shop which has the Key Antique Blend (most tasty!) and Toarco Toraja coffees. At least the coffee shop is beginning to accumulate customers. I have time to go to Akihabara, but I had intended (when I started the day) to have supper at about 1800. Although there's no hurry going to Akihabara (I won't be ready to buy for a couple of weeks), I'll probably go there tonight. It's still too early (1650) to start looking for a place to have supper. When I leave Mitsukoshi, I'll probably take another look at B1 and go to Akihabara. Who says only women have the prerogative of changing their minds? I looked around some more in Sunshine City (not very many restaurants on the restaurant floor of the Trade Center) and decided that by the time I got back to Roppongi it would be time for supper. I didn't want to get too late a start on my laundry. I went to my original choice for supper--Pont Neuf. The meal was excellent, but I suppose I should have ordered fish or chicken or had the beef (my monthly beef meal) cooked medium rare. I bought quite a bunch of juice and coffee on my way back to Hardy Barracks. My apple and "yogurt sofle" were tasty.
(1) A district famous for having a high concentration of discount stores selling electronic equipment/appliances.
(2) Stands for Shochiku Kageki Dan, an all-female revue troupe formed by the Shochiku entertainment conglomerate (which also ran the Kabukiza) to compete with the also all-female Takarazuka troupe(s). The SKD put on excellent shows, but in the end Shochiku abandoned the competition with Takarazuka. {Later note: Perhaps not true–as I note in August 1983, I eventually did find a web site for the SKD - http://skd.hmc6.net/index0.html }
(3) "Roman writing", the Japanese term for Western letters based on the Roman alphabet. Especially in urban areas, signs containing romaji are more common than one might expect.
(4) This restaurant has two locations, one in Ginza 5-Chome and the other in Ginza 8-Chome, both on one of the streets paralleling Chuo Dori, between it and Showa Dori. I remember that this was so in 1983. The former location would have been more convenient for me, but I found a web site with a picture of the front of the 8-Chome location, and it looks familiar, so perhaps that is where I went. The subsequent reference to Shinbashi Station also indicates that I had been at the 8-Chome location.
(5) The opening scene took place in Central Park, NYC. Even the English program explicitly stated that among the people seen passing through was a "gay couple".
(6) According to the Kodansha Atlas, not only does Mitsukoshi still have two stores in Ikebukuro, but Hankyu still has the old store diagonally across the street from the newer Yurakucho Mullion store.
29 Jan 1983 (Sat): I didn't dawdle at Hardy Barracks today. There is a U.S. Mail box in the Stars & Stripes bldg., so I was able to post my chess replies. From there to Shinjuku. There is a restaurant in My City which seems to be open for lunch and offers a kaki furai. First, I'm having a cup of Kilimanjaro in the coffee shop. The restaurant wasn't yet open for lunch. Oh well, I'll file it for future reference (it opens at 1100). Next stop, Kinokuniya [book store, not to be confused with the supermarket of the same name] for a couple of maps. Then, to Isetan. I didn't see anywhere to get a kaki furai in the basement. Didn't see a coffee bar, either. And so to the 7fl, where kaki furai is still not to be found. So I had a very good sashimi teishoku in a Japanese restaurant. The coffee bar on 7fl doesn't have straight coffee. Where does one obtain straight coffee in Isetan? Apparently nowhere. More about that later. The tsuji-ga-hanazome (dye works exhibit) was most interesting. Many beautiful items. I bought a catalog. Outside in the hallway, I saw a magnificent green marble pedestal which cost more than the statue on it. While I was on 8fl, I also saw the exhibit of French (Barbizon School) paintings. No catalog or postcards, to my regret. Perhaps that was because the paintings were for sale. I checked audio for a Sound Burger. No luck. I also took a look at the coffee/tea shops. Some nice places, but no straight coffee. I asked in the basement (where they sell bean coffee) and was directed to a tiny, easily overlooked stand bar which has variation coffee, but not straight coffee(1). I went into the restaurant for dessert and one of the first things I see in a display window is a kaki furai. Oh well, I enjoyed the sashimi teishoku. I'm now in a snack shop called Edelweiss, having a "marron Mont Blanc" (also has sweet red beans [adzuki beans]) and kocha(2). Then to Tokyo Station to meet "Bob". I had a bit of trouble finding the "gin no su"(3). I got directions in the Yaesu side info office, though. First, we went to browse in Maruzen, a bookstore across the street from Takashimaya honten (Nihonbashi). There were some books I'll want later. Then to Takashimaya to browse a bit and see a couple of exhibits. I saw there the same type of things which impressed me at Mitsukoshi honten (also Nihonbashi). They are tea ceremony utensils and are made of iron or iron and treated copper (the parts which have a gloss are copper). Then to the Bridgestone Museum to see items from their permanent collection, Somehow we made a wrong turn, because it shouldn't have taken us as long to walk to Kayabacho as it did(4). No big thing, though. We weren't very late for the meeting. Now to Ueno [by myself]. The concert was very good. The Glazunov Violin Concerto is a minor, but pleasant work (the Bruckner Sym. #1 was the work I had really come to hear). This was a painless way of learning that I probably don't want to buy a recording of it. The soloist did a very good job. The beginning of the Bruckner Symphony #1 sounded a bit rushed in places, but after the big trombone theme everyone settled down and the last three movements particularly were quite fine. After the concert I made a real discovery. During the concert I had tentatively decided to go back to Roppongi for supper. However, when I left it seemed early enough that plenty of places in Ueno should still be open, so I decided to look around for at least a few minutes to see if anything struck my fancy. Across from the station I thought there was a place that offered a kaki furai, and I was right. Nicol's has a kaki furai, and it is delicious. Now back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Another Japanese term, used for Vienna coffee, cafe au lait, etc.
(2) Western-style tea, as distinguished from ocha, Japanese tea. The "ko" is a word meaning "red" (evidently red-brown), and "cha" simply means "tea".
(3) Means "silver bell" (largish--a little bigger than an adult male's torso). Evidently it is a popular meeting place in Tokyo Station.
(4) Since the Bridgestone Museum is in Kyobashi, either we went the long way, through Kayabacho or I wrote the wrong district name in my notes. "Bob" really should have known the way, since he worked in Marunouchi, nearby.
30 Jan 1983 (Sun): I went directly to Ginza for morning coffee at the coffee bar in Mitsukoshi--the Antique Blend again. Very good. Excellent, in fact. I had forgotten to bring today's pen with me, so I went up to stationery and bought a pen. It quit writing later in the day. C'est la vie. Then to the Tourist Information Center (in front of it--it's closed on Sunday) to meet "Bob". The diarrhea I had this morning should have convinced me that I should change my plans for lunch. However, I persisted in taking him to Maharao(1). I'm not sure that it exacerbated my stomach problems, but I doubt that it helped. Indicative of the fog I was in was the fact that I failed to cancel my order for bread after I learned that my mutton dish came with rice or bread. The extra bread was so large I despaired and didn't even taste it. We decided to go to Minka-en [in Kawasaki, away from the coast]. It proved to be a fascinating look at traditional Japanese dwellings, in spite of the construction/repair work in progress. I probably would have taken longer and asked more questions if I had felt better. As it was, by the time we got back to Shinjuku, I was almost shaking with fatigue and malaise. "Bob" & I separated at Shinjuku Station, whereupon I immediately returned to Hardy Barracks, took a couple acetaminophen, and laid down. After a while, I felt well enough to go to Meidi-ya to buy bath soap and some other things. The banana was a disappointment, but the London Tea, Danone dessert (fruit "danessa"), and Napoli sherbet were valuable finds. The Meidi-ya vegetable juice was as good as I had remembered it being. The Minka-En would make a good field trip for the patients at the Yokosuka Rehab unit. I must remember to inform the staff(2).
(1) Part of the chain of Indian restaurants that also has Maharajah. Some of the locations are named Maharao, for some reason. This particular branch was in Hibiya.
(2) On looking back at it, I probably overestimated the imagination of both the staff and the patients. As was to become obvious later, even in this period most Navy personnel had precious little interest in the country in which they were stationed.
31 Jan 1983 (Mon): I felt better in the morning (my fever had broken), but not good enough that I wanted to spend all day running around Yokohama. I stayed in until about lunch time, and then went out to investigate the grocery store(1) near Hardy Barracks and discovered that they have all sorts of interesting things. I bought sashimi, rice, and a sort of spinach salad(2). I wanted some pudding and went to Fujiya, but they only had small cups. I did get baumkuchen and sweet potato pastries there. Belle was completely out of pudding. It turned out that Izumiya had a pudding. I didn’t think they would, but they did. Actually, it turned out to be pudding & whipped cream on top with cake underneath. It wasn’t what I expected, but it was tasty. I had lunch in the kitchen at H.B. and somewhat to my surprise didn’t want but a few mouthfuls of the rice. I spent the rest of the afternoon reading and resting in H.B. Later in the afternoon I did set out for Yokohama. Investigation revealed that there was a #103 bus leaving from the east side of Yokohama Station, but that Asahidai was not one of the stops. I was sure I could get there by walking from Negishi Station and so I did, but it was a very long walk up a rather large hill. On the way, though, I was able to determine that Negishidai was the stop I wanted, and that the #103 bus did stop there(3). Back in the Yokohama Station area, I had supper at the first open restaurant in Sotetsu Joinus that struck my fancy. I had a tori kamameshi(4). Because I had originally ordered tenpura, but they were no longer serving it, they gave me a mikan. After supper, back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Nishi-Azabu 1-12 or -14 on the street perpendicular to Roppongi Dori that continues into Aoyama Cemetery. This was my primary route to H.B. from Roppongi Dori.
(2) As I recall, this was a common type of salad made with wilted spinach or with wakame, having a light sesame seed dressing. The grocery store had pudding, of course, but only the less flavorful commercial brands. The pudding from specialty shops/stores, such as Fujiya or Morozoff, was richer.
(3) This information about buses and stops would have been for the purpose of getting to the AA meeting in the ﾂ“U.S. Navy Housing Activity Areaﾂ” west of Negishi Forest (Shinrin on an older map) Park. The older map marks the area as Terakubo.
(4) At first glance, this common dish resembles fried rice, but it is steamed, rather than fried.
24 Jan 1983 (Mon): Such a day, and before lunch even. I called Yokosuka and still couldn't get worthwhile directions to the Yokohama meeting. After a false start, I reached "Sam's" office, but he was in a meeting(1). I considered going out for coffee before calling again, but decided that it would take too long. Instead, I made coffee in the kitchen. The second time I called, I reached "Sam". His directions confused me, so he offered to meet me at Yamate Station. On looking at the map afterward, I discovered the problem. I decided that it was too late to go to the Kameido Tenjin Shrine to have lunch in the area, so I came to Ginza to have lunch at Darie(2). I tried to order a la carte, but they said it would take a long time. I had one of the lunch sets. The main course was "metiti", sort of a coarse-ground, homemade hot dog. Very good, though, as was the soup. The dessert was "papa..." something. It was a puffy, doughnut-shaped affair w/ a yogurt sauce jam. Yum! From there, I checked Matsuzakaya for a sit-down counter. No luck, but I did see a promising sushi-bento counter. Then to the Playguide for a ticket to this Saturday's Japan Philharmonic Sym. Orch. concert, having checked a poster in Yamano Music on the way. That finished my business in Ginza, and so, the Keihin Kyuko Line to Yokohama. This time, I managed to locate the Sotetsu Line (for trains to NAF Atsugi). While checking the subway station for extra stops (still no more), I saw yet another underground restaurant area (this place is getting out of hand!). There are some interesting places here. I decided to stop for coffee and notebook entries at Famous Coffees of the World, even though it's a shade pricey. The coffee is very good, though. Now to reconnoiter (quickly) Diamond Shopping Center and Porta. I did that and then took the Keihin Tohoku Line to Kannai Station. I walked to the Silk Center, passing the Opening-Port Memorial Hall (an interesting building--I hope I can get a photo or a postcard). I decided that I didn't have time to see the Silk Museum, so I got some maps at the Tourist Info. Office (no Yokohama Tour Companions) and went through the shops (bought postcards) and restaurants. I located the Silk Center Branch of the Chinese restaurant I wanted [Kaseiro] and they offer a dish I want, so I'll have supper there. I set off to see the Hikawa Maru(3), but on the way decided that I didn't have time to do that and eat supper in time to meet "Sam". Therefore, I stopped at Yamashita Park to write and take in the view. The Prawns w/ chili sauce at Kaseiro were tasty indeed. Afterward, I walked through Chinatown, where I saw lots of interesting shops and restaurants. I saw A Szechuan restaurant that was forbiddingly fancy. A bit later I saw a smaller, less fancy branch of the same restaurant (Chunking). From Chinatown I walked to Kannai Station and took the train to Yamate. I found a place to buy a small milk (to have with the goody I bought at the Kaseiro counter in the Diamond Shopping Center--I couldn't tell which one was the kind that used to be my favorite, but the one I picked was that one) and also bought a bottle (?) of "cafe au lait". "Sam" picked me up and we went to the meeting(4). Afterward, "Sam" took me and some of the Yokosuka Rehab people to Byobugaura Station (Keihin Kyuko). and so back to Hardy Barracks (none of the fruit stands were open).
(1) "Sam" is a retired U.S. serviceman I knew from the 1975-77 period. He was retired in Japan, working for the U.S. government in the port area. The department where he worked was listed in the U.S. Govt./Military phone book in a section where I wasn't expecting it to be.
(2) A Roumanian restaurant I knew from 1975-77 http://www.bento.com/rev/0780.html
(3) An early 20th-century Japanese passenger liner converted to a floating museum.
(4) This must have been the meeting in the hospital near the Foreigners Cemetery.
25 Jan 1983 (Tue): I got a late start today because I awoke late and changed rooms again (the two aren't related!). On the way to the subway, I bought stamps and am now exchanging travelers's checks to Yen at the Bank of Tokyo in Roppongi. If I waited until I get to Kameido to eat lunch,---I've changed my mind. This being Tuesday, the crowds shouldn't be anything extraordinary, even at lunch time. Even if the crush is too much, I'm sure I can get something away from the festival area. I did stop to have a cup of Kilimanjaro at Mikado, though. I got to Kameido easily. The walk to the shrine(1) was a bit longer than I expected, but no problem. Before anything else, I placated my appetite with a festival okonomiyaki. Then, I went to the shrine area proper and bought an "uso" bird(2). Some priests performed about 10-15 minutes of music, but I didn't see any of the pantomime dances Tour Companion mentioned. No big thing, though. While on the way out, I bought a pickled-plum-w/-sweet-syrup on a stick [a common festival snack item] and a bean bun. I noticed that the juice from the plum was staining my fingers, so I carefully wiped it all from my lips. there was a man making some sort of cookie who caught my eye. They looked tasty, so I bought three. Then on the way back to the station, my eye was caught by a serious coffee shop. It seemed like a good time to make entries with a cup of Mandehling. From Kameido I went to the Yamatane Museum of Art(3), where I saw an excellent exhibition and bought more postcards.
(1) Kameido Tenjin, Kameido 3-6. The shrine is devoted to {Sugawara Michizane?}
(2) The word "uso" is a homophone which can mean a type of bird or a lie. The simple figurines are made of wood. the idea is to start buying the smallest in the series of increasing sizes (less than 10). When you finish buying the series, you are forgiven for the various lies you have told.
(3) The Kodansha Atlas indicates that this museum is now in Kudan-Minami 2-Chome. If it has indeed moved, it used to be in the Yamatane Building in Nihonbashi-Kabutosho on Eitai Dori. Yamatane Museum of Art
26 Jan 1983 (Wed): Well, my schedule of events for this afternoon is tentatively set (My event for this evening is firmly set--I have the ticket). I came directly to Shinjuku, where I am having a cup of Colombian at one of the two coffee shops I saw Sunday. The coffee is very good. At Nogizaka Station I checked the subway fare from there to Shinjuku. Since the combination Subway/train fare via Harajuku would cost at least \200, the subway ticket would save me at least \80 and only take a few more minutes. There isn't any rush at the moment. Going to Nogizaka meant that I couldn't buy stamps at the Roppongi post office. Maybe I'll be able to squeeze in a visit to another. The best-laid plans ... Isetan is closed on Wednesday. This isn't the first time a depato's [depato = department store] being closed has changed my plans. However, my trip to Shinjuku has hardly been wasted. I looked in Takano for Mary fruit jellies--didn't find any--they seem to carry mostly their own brands [this is, in fact, the case]. However, they do have an India tea Salon and other interesting things. My City didn't have a Mary's(1) counter that I could see (not surprising, actually), but they do have a serious coffee shop. I nearly went into Odakyu, but changed my mind and decided that I should get to a restaurant for lunch. While following an underground passageway around (near) the auto entrance/exit (it went in the direction I wanted to go), I discovered that it led to the Shinjuku Center Bldg.(2). What a place! More shops and restaurants. This was my stop for lunch--at Mövenpick, specifically. Excellent meal! (seafood au gratin lunch set) Their desserts were attractive, but I was full and wanted to wait a bit before having dessert. Rather than let things go too far before making entries, I stopped in one of the courtyards of the Shinjuku Center Bldg. Now to see if that passageway leads to the Mitsui Bldg. (Mandarin Palace Restaurant). The passageway isn't covered as far as the Mitsui Bldg, but it does go by there. It appears that the Mandarin Palace is no longer there. It's fortunate that I checked. From there to Odakyu HALC, where I finally found Mary's "50 fresh" jellies. I bought plum and apricot. After some cogitation, I decided to have dessert at Tucheim's, also in Odakyu HALC, a "Spaghetti-ice (cream) napoleon". Most tasty. Now, the subway to Akasaka Mitsuke. The exhibit at the Suntory Museum of Art was most worthwhile; many beautiful pieces. This is the first time I have seen items from Okinawa in any sort of pottery/porcelain/lacquer exhibit. I bought a catalog. From there to Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi(3). I think I saw the exhibit mentioned in Tour Companion (TC); there were some more impressive (and more expensive) pieces in a room next to the aforementioned exhibit. There was still plenty of time, so I went to a couple rooms nearby with paintings. One room had some especially interesting paintings by an artist named Fukuchi. NOTE: Go back soon and buy at least a couple of the Art Top magazines. After that, I did a bit of looking around, as I had done before seeing the exhibits. The stereo section was in a bit of confusion (rearranging going on), so it was difficult to see much of anything. It was getting close to closing time, anyway. The juice bar is where it used to be. I had a refreshing glass of melon. Then to Ueno for the concert. I looked at the display case of the restaurant by the Ueno Park exit of Ueno Station. Its prices were very reasonable. The restaurant may come in handy at a future date. The soloist in the Beethoven Violin Concerto was fair; I've heard better (his intonation frequently seemed off). The Symphony Fantastique was very good. I enjoyed hearing it again. From Ueno directly to Roppongi and supper at Vakhhos. The meal was excellent. I wish the kitchen were cleaner, though, and the staff just don't seem glad to see customers (unless it's a personal friend). And so, back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Mary Chocolates チョコレートをはじめとした洋菓子・スイーツのメリーチョコレート Japanese only
(2) Nishi-Shinjuku 1-25 http://www.tatemono.com/buil/eng/v-f.html
(3) This is the main/home store, sometimes referred to as Mitsukoshi honten ("original shop") in the notes. It's the only department store in Japan to get its name in a train/subway station, Mitsukoshimae ("in front of Mitsukoshi"). http://www.mitsukoshi.co.jp/corp/annual/2005-cp_p16_17.pdf
27 Jan 1983 (Thu): I'm getting a (slightly) late start because I spent some time talking to people in Yokosuka (at CFAY, Commander, Fleet Activities Yokosuka). I learned (more-or-less) what my job will be and that I can store things in the office. I'm now in Coffee Club Roppongi (CCR) for a cup of Mandehling. After several false starts, it's finally lunch time. The wares of Hosyo(1) were attractive, but I was more of a mind to try the mizutaki place(2) or sushi-ya near it. the "A course" at the mizutaki place turned out to be \3500 rather than \2500. The former price is more than I wanted to pay for lunch today. The sushi-ya has an appetizing nigiri zushi set, but it was closed. I then decided to try Borsalino. After a bit of looking I found it, only to discover that at 1159 it was not yet open. Since restaurants usually open late, I went elsewhere rather than wait for it to open. The sushi-ya was still closed (Thursdays seems like an odd closing day for a restaurant--perhaps it's only open in the evening), so it was lunch at Hosyo after all. From the menu, it appears that Hosyo has northern cuisine, which is good news. I had tenshin don and shu mai--very tasty. Then to Yokosuka via the Tokyu Toyoko line (to Yokohama) and Keihin Kyuko line. I was daring and changed to an express at Den En Chofu [between the Yamanote line and Yokohama] when I wasn't 100% sure of what I was doing. I made the correct moves, though. Once in Yokohama, I tried to cash my pay check at the Bank of Yokohama, but once again no luck. The China Coaster(3) is not at its old location. There is a promising serious coffee shop near the Golden Tiger [I don't remember where or what this was--it sounds like a sailor bar]. I was able to cash my pay check (to Yen) at the Windjammer [the old Enlisted Men's Club, replaced by the new on-base Club Alliance]. I looked in the A-33(4), but no SoundBurgers or Yashica FX-7s. No time to look for much of anything else. From there to CFAY Admin [a very short distance inside the Main Gate], where I met some people, left some things, and picked up part of my mail. I took a quick look around Shioiri Station(5). There is an attractive, but not a serious, coffee shop. I then saw a shop named Sasaya and thinking it might be the old Sasaya in a new location(6), came in for a cup of coffee (which I wanted anyway). If it is connected with the old Sasaya, it has changed to being primarily a restaurant--no straight coffee. The Vienna coffee is excellent, though. I will be leaving from Yokosuka Station [Yokosuka Line–Japan National Railways (JNR)], not Shioiri. My favorite sushi-ya (in Yokosuka) is still there [I don't remember which one this might have been or where it was–it couldn’t have been Genroku(7) Sushi, which wasn’t there in 1975-77]. There are three possible serious coffee shops on Sennichi Dori. Ryu-En [Chinese restaurant] is still there, but seems a shade pricey. The Korean restaurant is still there, as is the old tenpura-ya(8). Marui has a restaurant with reasonable prices, but no food floor or audio equipment(9). I didn't want to take time to look in another depato, so back to Tokyo. I went to the meeting and made arrangements to meet "Bob" on Saturday. There were as many (at least) false starts before supper as before lunch. Well, perhaps that's a bit of an exaggeration. I missed the bus while digging in my pocket for change, so I walked to Roppongi rather than wait ten minutes for another one. The wind wasn't blowing, so it wasn't bad [also, walking gave me a better chance to see what was on the way]. On the way to the Xing, I looked in the basement of the ROI Roppongi Bldg [on Gaien-Higashi Dori, Roppongi 5-5]. The Mizutaki place was closed. They must close at 2100. So, I chose Rasa Singapura for supper. The meal was excellent, but I was too ambitious and ordered to much food. I had to leave 2 of one dish and a few pieces of potato from the gado gado to save room for dessert. Afterward, to Hardy Barracks.
(1) That's the romanization they used, an old-fashioned one. The modern romanization would be Hosho.
(2) Close to or next to Hotel Ibis on Gaien-Higashi Dori in Roppongi 7-14. I don't think I ever learned the name of the place. It was one of those restaurants I had found in 1975-77.
(3) A bar run by a U.S. Marine retiree, Dick Hanna, and his Japanese wife. It was one of my hang-outs in the 1975-77 period, even after I quit drinking. It was not a hostess bar and they served food. It was on the Chuo Dori side of the
"sailor bar" district, commonly called "the Honcho" by Americans, because it was in the Honcho district. The China Coaster would have been in Honcho 1-Chome. The area closest to Chuo Dori would have been in Odakicho 1-Chome, but I don't know if there were any sailor bars with an Odakicho address. I never did find a new China Coaster. Once, I saw a van with something about the China Coaster parked in the Commissary parking lot on base, but Dick Hanna was nowhere around, and I couldn't wait around for him.
(4) An annex of the Navy Exchange--it carried imported goods in general, cameras, audio, and video equipment
(5) There are two Keihin Kyuko line stations in Yokosuka, Shioiri and Yokosuka Chuo. The former is on the Yokohama side of town and is serviced by local (black kanji) and tokkyu (red kanji) expresses. The latter is in the main business area and is serviced by locals, tokkyu expresses, and kaiso tokkyu (green kanji) expresses.
(6) The location I remembered was in the Chuo Dori/Sennichi Dori area, on the Yokosuka Chuo end.
(7) http://www.digitaljournal.com/news/?articleID=1977 In English
(8) The former may be a restaurant on Sennichi Dori which had a bovine sign with rolling eyes on the sidewalk out front. I've no idea what the latter may have been.
(9) The lack of food floors seems to have been standard with Marui stores. They seemed to concentrate on clothing.
28 Jan 1983 (Fri): I went directly to Ginza and had a Toarco Toraja in the Mitsukoshi coffee bar. It's as good as I remembered. While writing postcards, my pen ran out of ink, so after coffee I went up to stationery and bought another fine point blue pen. As long as I was in the vicinity, it seemed like a good idea to investigate the stereo equipment. They had some interesting systems I might use in a home off-base, but no SoundBurger. I suppose it will be necessary to go to Akihabara(1). But not today. Unless. As best I can determine from Tour Companion (TC), the stores in Akihabara close at 1900. That probably doesn't give me enough time after seeing the SKD(2). And so to Chikuyotei for lunch [probably learned about it from TC]. I found the block easily enough. the restaurant's name is in kanji, with no romaji(3), as I expected would be so. There was a building which I was fairly sure was Chikuyotei, but I had no way of being sure from anything on the building. If I had been carrying my Nelson character dictionary with me, I could have figured it out eventually. However, Nelson isn't the sort of thing one carried around [it's a big book]. Nelson wasn't necessary, though. As it turned out, there were two ladies from the restaurant standing outside and I determined from them that this was indeed the place. I suppose \2500 is the most I've ever paid for a simple unagi teishoku. On the other hand, it was quite possibly the best unagi I've ever had. Also, I discovered that Chikuyotei is popular with "important" people. Large limousines outside when I left(4). I took the Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro because it wasn't much farther away then the Yamanote Line (Shinbashi Station) and I knew I would save a few Yen. Save a few here and save a few there and you have more to spend! Good lord, Sunshine City is a maze. I was already on the Marunouchi Line when I saw from the map that Higashi Ikebukuro on the Yurakucho Line would have been a better station to use [debatable, in actuality]. I found Sunshine City easily enough. I entered at the end opposite from the building with Sunshine Theater and it seemed like a longer walk to the "culture center" than it took to get from the station to the entrance I used. Also, there must be a better way to get from B1 to 4fl than the way I used. I felt pressed for time, though [? and didn't take time to find the best way?]. Perhaps I shouldn't have. This theater uses the new [to me] kanji for "toilet". If I can remember to write them down, I'll ask "Bob" what they mean ["otearai" - "(hon) hand-washing (place)"] Well, the elaborate sets are gone, but the SKD lives on (that wasn't an intentional rhyme). It was an excellent show, well-assembled (that probably isn't the correct verb, but it'll do for now) and well-performed. I hope they stay in business, even though I'll probably miss the elaborate sets and grand finales, at least for a while(5). I found the proper way, i.e., the elevator, to get from floor to floor. From there, to the Sunshine City Mitsukoshi (two stores in Ikebukuro?(6)). It isn't exactly crowded with customers. It looks fairly new. There was no coffee bar in the basement (it doesn't seem to be a full-sized depato). However, on 4fl, I found a coffee shop which has the Key Antique Blend (most tasty!) and Toarco Toraja coffees. At least the coffee shop is beginning to accumulate customers. I have time to go to Akihabara, but I had intended (when I started the day) to have supper at about 1800. Although there's no hurry going to Akihabara (I won't be ready to buy for a couple of weeks), I'll probably go there tonight. It's still too early (1650) to start looking for a place to have supper. When I leave Mitsukoshi, I'll probably take another look at B1 and go to Akihabara. Who says only women have the prerogative of changing their minds? I looked around some more in Sunshine City (not very many restaurants on the restaurant floor of the Trade Center) and decided that by the time I got back to Roppongi it would be time for supper. I didn't want to get too late a start on my laundry. I went to my original choice for supper--Pont Neuf. The meal was excellent, but I suppose I should have ordered fish or chicken or had the beef (my monthly beef meal) cooked medium rare. I bought quite a bunch of juice and coffee on my way back to Hardy Barracks. My apple and "yogurt sofle" were tasty.
(1) A district famous for having a high concentration of discount stores selling electronic equipment/appliances.
(2) Stands for Shochiku Kageki Dan, an all-female revue troupe formed by the Shochiku entertainment conglomerate (which also ran the Kabukiza) to compete with the also all-female Takarazuka troupe(s). The SKD put on excellent shows, but in the end Shochiku abandoned the competition with Takarazuka. {Later note: Perhaps not true–as I note in August 1983, I eventually did find a web site for the SKD - http://skd.hmc6.net/index0.html }
(3) "Roman writing", the Japanese term for Western letters based on the Roman alphabet. Especially in urban areas, signs containing romaji are more common than one might expect.
(4) This restaurant has two locations, one in Ginza 5-Chome and the other in Ginza 8-Chome, both on one of the streets paralleling Chuo Dori, between it and Showa Dori. I remember that this was so in 1983. The former location would have been more convenient for me, but I found a web site with a picture of the front of the 8-Chome location, and it looks familiar, so perhaps that is where I went. The subsequent reference to Shinbashi Station also indicates that I had been at the 8-Chome location.
(5) The opening scene took place in Central Park, NYC. Even the English program explicitly stated that among the people seen passing through was a "gay couple".
(6) According to the Kodansha Atlas, not only does Mitsukoshi still have two stores in Ikebukuro, but Hankyu still has the old store diagonally across the street from the newer Yurakucho Mullion store.
29 Jan 1983 (Sat): I didn't dawdle at Hardy Barracks today. There is a U.S. Mail box in the Stars & Stripes bldg., so I was able to post my chess replies. From there to Shinjuku. There is a restaurant in My City which seems to be open for lunch and offers a kaki furai. First, I'm having a cup of Kilimanjaro in the coffee shop. The restaurant wasn't yet open for lunch. Oh well, I'll file it for future reference (it opens at 1100). Next stop, Kinokuniya [book store, not to be confused with the supermarket of the same name] for a couple of maps. Then, to Isetan. I didn't see anywhere to get a kaki furai in the basement. Didn't see a coffee bar, either. And so to the 7fl, where kaki furai is still not to be found. So I had a very good sashimi teishoku in a Japanese restaurant. The coffee bar on 7fl doesn't have straight coffee. Where does one obtain straight coffee in Isetan? Apparently nowhere. More about that later. The tsuji-ga-hanazome (dye works exhibit) was most interesting. Many beautiful items. I bought a catalog. Outside in the hallway, I saw a magnificent green marble pedestal which cost more than the statue on it. While I was on 8fl, I also saw the exhibit of French (Barbizon School) paintings. No catalog or postcards, to my regret. Perhaps that was because the paintings were for sale. I checked audio for a Sound Burger. No luck. I also took a look at the coffee/tea shops. Some nice places, but no straight coffee. I asked in the basement (where they sell bean coffee) and was directed to a tiny, easily overlooked stand bar which has variation coffee, but not straight coffee(1). I went into the restaurant for dessert and one of the first things I see in a display window is a kaki furai. Oh well, I enjoyed the sashimi teishoku. I'm now in a snack shop called Edelweiss, having a "marron Mont Blanc" (also has sweet red beans [adzuki beans]) and kocha(2). Then to Tokyo Station to meet "Bob". I had a bit of trouble finding the "gin no su"(3). I got directions in the Yaesu side info office, though. First, we went to browse in Maruzen, a bookstore across the street from Takashimaya honten (Nihonbashi). There were some books I'll want later. Then to Takashimaya to browse a bit and see a couple of exhibits. I saw there the same type of things which impressed me at Mitsukoshi honten (also Nihonbashi). They are tea ceremony utensils and are made of iron or iron and treated copper (the parts which have a gloss are copper). Then to the Bridgestone Museum to see items from their permanent collection, Somehow we made a wrong turn, because it shouldn't have taken us as long to walk to Kayabacho as it did(4). No big thing, though. We weren't very late for the meeting. Now to Ueno [by myself]. The concert was very good. The Glazunov Violin Concerto is a minor, but pleasant work (the Bruckner Sym. #1 was the work I had really come to hear). This was a painless way of learning that I probably don't want to buy a recording of it. The soloist did a very good job. The beginning of the Bruckner Symphony #1 sounded a bit rushed in places, but after the big trombone theme everyone settled down and the last three movements particularly were quite fine. After the concert I made a real discovery. During the concert I had tentatively decided to go back to Roppongi for supper. However, when I left it seemed early enough that plenty of places in Ueno should still be open, so I decided to look around for at least a few minutes to see if anything struck my fancy. Across from the station I thought there was a place that offered a kaki furai, and I was right. Nicol's has a kaki furai, and it is delicious. Now back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Another Japanese term, used for Vienna coffee, cafe au lait, etc.
(2) Western-style tea, as distinguished from ocha, Japanese tea. The "ko" is a word meaning "red" (evidently red-brown), and "cha" simply means "tea".
(3) Means "silver bell" (largish--a little bigger than an adult male's torso). Evidently it is a popular meeting place in Tokyo Station.
(4) Since the Bridgestone Museum is in Kyobashi, either we went the long way, through Kayabacho or I wrote the wrong district name in my notes. "Bob" really should have known the way, since he worked in Marunouchi, nearby.
30 Jan 1983 (Sun): I went directly to Ginza for morning coffee at the coffee bar in Mitsukoshi--the Antique Blend again. Very good. Excellent, in fact. I had forgotten to bring today's pen with me, so I went up to stationery and bought a pen. It quit writing later in the day. C'est la vie. Then to the Tourist Information Center (in front of it--it's closed on Sunday) to meet "Bob". The diarrhea I had this morning should have convinced me that I should change my plans for lunch. However, I persisted in taking him to Maharao(1). I'm not sure that it exacerbated my stomach problems, but I doubt that it helped. Indicative of the fog I was in was the fact that I failed to cancel my order for bread after I learned that my mutton dish came with rice or bread. The extra bread was so large I despaired and didn't even taste it. We decided to go to Minka-en [in Kawasaki, away from the coast]. It proved to be a fascinating look at traditional Japanese dwellings, in spite of the construction/repair work in progress. I probably would have taken longer and asked more questions if I had felt better. As it was, by the time we got back to Shinjuku, I was almost shaking with fatigue and malaise. "Bob" & I separated at Shinjuku Station, whereupon I immediately returned to Hardy Barracks, took a couple acetaminophen, and laid down. After a while, I felt well enough to go to Meidi-ya to buy bath soap and some other things. The banana was a disappointment, but the London Tea, Danone dessert (fruit "danessa"), and Napoli sherbet were valuable finds. The Meidi-ya vegetable juice was as good as I had remembered it being. The Minka-En would make a good field trip for the patients at the Yokosuka Rehab unit. I must remember to inform the staff(2).
(1) Part of the chain of Indian restaurants that also has Maharajah. Some of the locations are named Maharao, for some reason. This particular branch was in Hibiya.
(2) On looking back at it, I probably overestimated the imagination of both the staff and the patients. As was to become obvious later, even in this period most Navy personnel had precious little interest in the country in which they were stationed.
31 Jan 1983 (Mon): I felt better in the morning (my fever had broken), but not good enough that I wanted to spend all day running around Yokohama. I stayed in until about lunch time, and then went out to investigate the grocery store(1) near Hardy Barracks and discovered that they have all sorts of interesting things. I bought sashimi, rice, and a sort of spinach salad(2). I wanted some pudding and went to Fujiya, but they only had small cups. I did get baumkuchen and sweet potato pastries there. Belle was completely out of pudding. It turned out that Izumiya had a pudding. I didn’t think they would, but they did. Actually, it turned out to be pudding & whipped cream on top with cake underneath. It wasn’t what I expected, but it was tasty. I had lunch in the kitchen at H.B. and somewhat to my surprise didn’t want but a few mouthfuls of the rice. I spent the rest of the afternoon reading and resting in H.B. Later in the afternoon I did set out for Yokohama. Investigation revealed that there was a #103 bus leaving from the east side of Yokohama Station, but that Asahidai was not one of the stops. I was sure I could get there by walking from Negishi Station and so I did, but it was a very long walk up a rather large hill. On the way, though, I was able to determine that Negishidai was the stop I wanted, and that the #103 bus did stop there(3). Back in the Yokohama Station area, I had supper at the first open restaurant in Sotetsu Joinus that struck my fancy. I had a tori kamameshi(4). Because I had originally ordered tenpura, but they were no longer serving it, they gave me a mikan. After supper, back to Hardy Barracks.
(1) Nishi-Azabu 1-12 or -14 on the street perpendicular to Roppongi Dori that continues into Aoyama Cemetery. This was my primary route to H.B. from Roppongi Dori.
(2) As I recall, this was a common type of salad made with wilted spinach or with wakame, having a light sesame seed dressing. The grocery store had pudding, of course, but only the less flavorful commercial brands. The pudding from specialty shops/stores, such as Fujiya or Morozoff, was richer.
(3) This information about buses and stops would have been for the purpose of getting to the AA meeting in the ﾂ“U.S. Navy Housing Activity Areaﾂ” west of Negishi Forest (Shinrin on an older map) Park. The older map marks the area as Terakubo.
(4) At first glance, this common dish resembles fried rice, but it is steamed, rather than fried.
