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Japan Diary, 16 Oct 1983 -31 Oct 1983

16 Oct 1983 (Sun): A change of plans. I wasn't anxious to see Mahagonny (I gather opera by Japanese companies is a chancy business), but hadn't completely rejected the idea(1). However, after examining the list of exhibits showing, I did eliminate it from my plans in favor of seeing a couple of the many interesting exhibitions showing now. I was a little late getting out, so I had lunch in Yokosuka. Ryu-En was my first choice, but it wasn't yet open, as wasn't Shindo. I had an excellent tenpura soba matsu at the Central Mall tenpura-ya(2). Then Tokyo–Tokyo Station, in fact, for the exhibition at Daimaru. I had to go up to 13F (roof) to get there, having taken an escalator from 9F that bypassed 12F. I didn't feel bad because a Japanese couple ahead of me did the same. The exhibition is interesting (I'm taking a break) and all the plates of the paintings (there are some drawings, lithos, etc.) are in color (I took an early peek at the catalog). The selection of postcards wasn't nearly as interesting as it might have been, but I did buy a couple. From Daimaru to Matsuya. Rather than look at the exhibitions first, I went to Restaurant City for a drink. The coffee bar is in B2, but Restaurant City is closer to where the exhibitions were. Still, there are more snack-type places in B2. However, I was able to get a seat in Shiseido Parlour. The caffe cappuccino is rather fancy. The whipped cream & cinnamon comes separately and you get a stick (also cinnamon?) With which to stir it. Quite good. The exhibitions were not at all good. Well, one exhibition had a couple paintings of moderate interest. I suppose it was inevitable that I would find dud exhibitions in Matsuya one day. From there to Mitsukoshi to buy coffee. Then, I tried to stash my jacket & briefcase, but no lockers were available in my usual area (I had also tried to stash them before seeing the exhibition in Daimaru, with the same result–this was in Tokyo Station). I didn't want to go all the way to the Sukiyabashi section, so I took everything with me to Matsuzakaya for an exhibition of Ohara School ikebana(3). It was an excellent exhibition. Thee is always some silly stuff in any ikebana exhibition, but there was a plenitude of attractive and/or interesting displays. When I was finished with that, it was one of those awkward times of the day–not actually meal time, but not enough time to do much of anything. It occurred to me that I could at least refresh my memory about the restaurants in New Melsa(4), even if I didn't eat there (the only restaurant I remembered was the omelette place). In addition to the seemingly ubiquitous Tops & Saxon(5), there is a Chinese restaurant that has a selection fo yum cha [dim sum]; not as large as the chain, but yum cha nevertheless, and at slightly lower prices than the chain's. It all made a very tasty meal. By then, it was once more time to return to Yokosuka, which I did on a tokkyu [regular express] from Higashi Ginza. I got a seat before Shinagawa, so I didn't try to change to a kaiso tokkyu [limited express] at Shinagawa.
(1) Opera by Kurt Weill & Bertolt Brecht: http://www.culturevulture.net/Opera/Mahagonny.htm I never did see an opera while in Japan, although I went to many other classical concerts/recitals.
(2) At this point I still hadn't realized that the restaurant was actually a soba-ya.
(3) http://www.ohararyu.or.jp/english/index_e.html
(4) http://www3.oag.com/Cities/Detail?city=80&cat=28&item=92787 Description in English
(5) Evidently, the chain still exists. They feature Japanese-style curry rather than Indian or Pakistani curry. I couldn't find any useful hits in English. The Yahoo translation function consistently translates the Japanese phonetic symbols for "curry" as "Calais".
17 Oct 1983 (Mon): Lunch was tenshin don at Chuka Hanten. I had plenty of time afterward, so I went to see of the grape vendor was up by Yokohama Ginko [ginko = bank]. He wasn't finished setting up, but I was able to buy a kilo [2.2 pounds] of purple grapes. Then, a kobanyaki and back to the office. After work, I was hungry for Korean food, so I went to the old Korean restaurant. I had considered going to Katana Zushi(1), but decided that I was hungry for meat, having had eggs & rice for lunch. Rather than have kimchee with my meal, I had yukke bibinba with the kalbi-yaki(2).I'm still not certain how one is supposed to eat yukke bibinba [i.e., stir it all together or eat the component parts one at a time], but it was excellent the way I ate it. Then, since I have supernumerary(3) and have plenty of things to eat in the room, I was virtuous & went right back to the barracks.
(1) I think this was near Shioiri Station, about a block away from it towards, but not actually in, the "Honcho".
(2) You can get some idea of what Korean food in Japan is about from http://metropolis.co.jp/biginjapanarchive349/341/biginjapaninc.htm However, bibinba (evidently bibinbap in Korean) requires more detail. Basic bibinba is rice with a topping of various chopped vegetables that have been marinated in a sauce based on soy sauce. If you add chopped, seasoned raw beef and perhaps a quail egg, you have yukke bibinba.
(3) In just about any navy watch/duty section, there will be people designated as potential substitutes for the person actually on duty in case that person gets run over by a beer truck or something.
18 Oct 1983 (Tue): I was definitely hungry for sushi at lunch today, so I went to Genroku Sushi. Today was a very good day. I had no trouble getting things I like best. That left me with plenty of time afterward. I went through the Mikasa Ginza(1) and as expected, the stationery shop is no longer there (I didn't recall seeing it). Then, although it is a bit early, I went to Seiyu to look for a desk calendar [for 1984]. Botanya has been changed and no longer carries stationery (as such). The other area didn't have any that I could see. There is still plenty of time, so I didn't go into Kangaroo today. I did check my mail in C-2, but nothing there. There was a bit of confusion regarding my destination for supper. My original destination was Firebird, but on the way I diverted to Shindo, However, it was closed, so I ended up at Firebird after all. I had the "beef tongue rice" dinner and the homemade chocolate cake for dessert. Good! Afterward, I couldn't think of anything I needed, so I didn't buy anything on the way back to base. It didn't rain, although the weather looked threatening. I might have gone out of town for supper. As it was, staying in enabled me to do my laundry later.
(1) The Mikasa Shopping Plaza http://www.mikasa-mall.com/index.html
19 Oct 1983 (Wed): Lunch in the rain. Ugh. Well, not eating in it, but going to & from lunch in the rain. Shindo is still closed, so I went to Ryü-En for tori yakisoba [chicken grilled noodles]. The last time I went there on a Wednesday, it was crowded, but the weather must have kept people at home (I had counted on it to do so), because it wasn't crowded today. Even though I got most of the afternoon off, I didn't go anywhere because I didn't feel well. I bought some fruit and tuna at the Commissary and stayed in my room.
20 Oct 1983 (Thu): I feel terrible today. The weather improved some, but I didn't feel good enough even to have supper out of town. I got two hours for lunch. Before going out for lunch, I stopped at A-33(1) to mail an envelope of newspaper clippings to Mother and to look upstairs for a yukata. They sell them, but they are low on stock. The saleslady said more would be arriving that afternoon. I ate lunch at Genroku Sushi. That is what I felt like eating. I would have bought tea at Seiyu afterward, but Seiyu was closed (so was Fujiya). I checked my mail at C-2 (postcard) and went to the barracks to get the cans of frozen juice. After work I had supper at Pinocchio and returned directly to base. I checked at A-33 for the yukata, but they still hadn't arrived. The lady said the supplier phoned and said he would deliver tomorrow. I'll be pissed if they aren't there. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) The Navy Exchange annex for cameras, audio equipment, TVs, Asian souvenir-type goods, and suchlike. There was also a branch of the base Post Office.
21 Oct 1983 (Fri): Pig-out at Genroku Sushi! Seven plates, including three hamachi. I'm trying to cut down at lunch. I hope one more plate won't make a significant difference. After eating, I returned once more to A-33, and was able to buy what I wanted. The name of that is a nemaki(1). Yukata are different [not much different] and are suitable for outdoor wear(2). The nemaki is for indoor wear and that is what I wanted. Here I go on my wet weekend(3). The weather may improve, but at the present time it looks to be rainy this weekend. I waited outside the office for a cab for 5-6 minutes. It seemed that no off-base cabs came by there, so I grudgingly set out walking, hoping to see a cab along the way. I did, at the nearby intersection. Rather than wait for the 1658 kaiso tokkyu, I took the 1645 tokkyu because I could get a seat. Also, I don't think the k.t. is more than 13 minutes faster than that. I'm still not at all certain where I'll have supper. I would like to have supper at some place accessible from the subway. Considering the rain, I also don't want to check in and then go out for supper. Before the train reached Shinagawa, I decided to continue to Higashi Ginza. Then I stashed my bag in a coin locker and bought a newspaper. The reason I went to Ginza for supper is that there are plenty of restaurants accessible from the tunnels, even if I walked to the Chiyoda Line Hibiya Station afterward. I had supper at Savini, the "today's dinner". It was pretty good even if the fried sole was phenomenally bony, probably the most bony piece of fish I've ever had. They were easy enough to avoid, though, once I knew they were there. The first bite, of the small end, seemed to be mostly bone. The dinner also included an oyster gratin. I wonder if oysters are in season again. After supper, I went to Kimuraya for goodies. Then, I claimed my bag and walked to Hibiya Station and took the subway to Yushima. The hotel was in the direction I thought it should be and I had no trouble finding it. The TV in my room doesn't seem to work. Oh well, it's no tremendous loss. I used the public bath (I needed a bath), but didn't soak in the pool(4). Those things are too hot. The tenugui was more efficient at drying than I thought it would be. There is no soap in the room, but it is provided in the bath. The bath also has lockers for your room key. The cream horns (I have peanut) are decent if you have some of the cream filling in the mouthful. The pastry isn't one of Kimuraya's better creations.
(1) http://www.japanesekimono.com/flannel_kimono.htm
(2) Not according to the web page up above, but I'm pretty certain I have seen yukata worn outdoors.
(3) No pun intended! It wasn't until somewhat later that I learned that "wet" and related terms can have a sexual meaning in Japanese.
(4) That is, I only washed myself off at the faucets.
22 Oct 1983 (Sat): The cleaning ladies come around early at this hotel. I forgot to bring my measuring spoon, but I was able to make coffee using the teaspoons as a measure. It was a shade on the strong side, so tomorrow I'll use one less spoon. I eventually got ready and went out. The first stop was the Tourist Information Center for a Tour Companion. Then to the American Drug Store(1) for some cold medicine. They don't carry Drixoral(2), but I bought something, Polaramine, that contains an active ingredient with an unfamiliar name. I bought some; I need something and it's highly doubtful that I'll find anything worth buying in the Navy Exchange. From there, I wandered to Ginza 4-Chome Crossing, where I bought a newspaper. I went into Mitsukoshi to make a pit stop and to use the drinking fountain to take a pill. I buy there often enough that I didn't feel guilty about not buying anything there this time. Since it was just after 1100 by this time, some places were open for lunch. It seemed like a good time to try Tops & Saxon again (a long time since the last time), to get a better idea of what the excitement is about. It was nearly empty, as expected [because it was still early]. My beef tongue curry and black chocolate cake a la mode (with tea) made a fine meal. I think I have the popularity figured out. It's a first-rate Japanese-style curry; they have beef curries, which the Indian restaurants don't; they are in a wide variety of locations; and they have a wide variety of good, familiar desserts (Indian desserts are also good, but not familiar and in limited variety [at least in the Indian restaurants I knew then]). After lunch I bought another pack of tissues (cold) and headed for Ueno for the exhibition at the National Museum of Western Art(3). It was an outstanding exhibition–all sorts of works I've never seen by artists new to me. I'd read that the catalog is hard covered and was expecting it to cost more than 2000 Yen, but it was an even 2000 Yen, I also bought postcards. From there, I went looking for the post office that is marked on my map as being near Keisei Ueno. I didn't expect to find it–marking of post offices is a weak point of that map–but there it was, to one side of Keisei(4). It was also closed. At least I know the location of a post office in Ueno. However, that info won't be of great use if the post offices eventually close on all Saturdays. Anyway, back to the hotel for a rest. I was reluctant to commit myself to eating after the concert, so I set out early enough to eat beforehand. I was tempted by a couple of places on the way to the main drag, but I wound up at the tenpura-ya in Plaza U(5), in which I had intended to eat some months ago, but went into the wrong restaurant, having turned right instead of left at the elevator. Their tenpura has a slightly different coating from that of other shops, but is very good. From there to Tokyo Bunka Kaikan. Having bought my ticket, I decided I was full enough that dessert could wait until after the concert (leftovers from Kimuraya). The concert was enjoyable. The 6th Brandenburg Concerto [J. S. Bach] should be performed by true virtuosos when performed live using only one player to a part, but even so, it was interesting to hear it done that way live. After the concert, back to the hotel. The real attraction of the cream horns must be the rich cream filling, which is quite good. I pulled off the small ends with no filling inside.
(1) I don't think this is there anymore. It was in the Denki Building or the Hibiya Park Building (Yurakucho 1-Chome). Oddly, there is now a similar store of the same name in Nagoya.
(2) Not only did I eventually quit using Drixoral (it raises my blood pressure), but I now avoid all antihistamines.
(3) A fine museum which regularly holds large & interesting special exhibitions. http://www.nmwa.go.jp/
(4) The Keisei Department Store was replaced years ago by Marui.
(5) Evidently, not only is Plaza U still there (Ueno 4-8-7), but the tenpura restaurant, Tsunahachi, is still there on the 5th floor. The original location in Shinjuku seems to be the one best known to foreigners.
23 Oct 1983 (Sun): After checking out of the hotel, I cut across Shinobazu Pond to Ueno Station(1) rather than go to Yushima . In Ginza Station I stashed my bag and bought 2 newspapers and more tissues. Then it was decision time. After some cogitation, the decision was that "Monet et sa collection" could wait until next weekend. Further cogitation resulted in a decision to go directly to Tsudanuma(2) and have lunch there. Contrary to usual practice, I slightly overestimated the amount of time needed to get there. Changing trains in Nishi-Funabashi did result in Excitement! I left my umbrella on the subway [Tozai Line] and didn't think of it until I was on the track for Tsudanume. I was mentally waving the umbrella bye-bye when I looked at the track where I had debarked from the subway and saw that it hadn't yet left the station. I rushed over there and got my umbrella just before the train departed. Once in Tsudanuma, I easily located the hall where the concert is to be held. It is visible from the south exit of the station and plainly marked. It's in a complex including Daiei and Takashimaya. I saw the magic word "resutoran", which led me to 8-11F on the Daiei side. None of the restaurants seemed to be particularly crowded, so I looked on 8-10F (11F is completely occupied by Aster). I had lunch at a little place called Mama Tomco, the Tomco rice and a blueberry yogurt parfait. The Tomco rice isn't radically different from things I can get in Yokosuka, but it was tasty and the entire meal only cost 1080 Yen. Following lunch, I set out to locate the, or a way to the, concert hall proper. I made a false start, consisting of an unnecessary trip to the basement, which I "justified" with a pit stop, but the way to the concert hall was found. I'm now on 3F in the central area under the concert hall, where I stopped to catch up on my notes. There is still more than hour before tickets go on sale, so I'll take a look on the north side of the station and perhaps have a cup of coffee. Well, I did that and it nearly proved my undoing. There isn't much to see on the north side of the JNR station, so before long I found myself back at Parco in a coffee shop (I forget the name) on 2F, having a cup of Colombian (served with a vial of carbonated water, as Toa sometimes does--I used it because the coffee was stronger than dirt–good, though). I finished my coffee, headed for the concert hall, bought my ticket and went inside to wait for the concert to begin. For some reason I looked at the flyer and discovered to my shock that the concert began at 1430, rather than 1530. I barely had time for a pit stop before going to my seat. The concert was very good. The soloist in the Beethoven Violin Concerto sounded uneasy at the start, but quickly settled down. It was a slightly more subdued performance of the work than you normally hear. Not flaccid, but introspective, to an extent. The Eroica [Beethoven Sym. #3] received a fine performance. The concert began with a decent, although not noteworthy performance of the [Beethoven] Egmont Overture. Rather than eat supper in Tsudanuma (it was nearly 1600), I thought it would be best to get a little closer to my eventual destination. The first train I boarded proved to be an express that skipped Nishi Funabashi, so I transferred at Funabashi. No trouble after that. Back in Ginza, I bought tea and coffee in Mitsukoshi, receiving a "presento" when I bought the coffee. There were seats at Otto's Grill, so I had supper there, not wanting to make the trip to Yokosuka on an empty stomach if it were practical to eat in Tokyo. My first order was bef rolladen, but they were out of that, so I ordered the veal fricasee. The sauce was bland, but the meat was tasty. The cheesecake was great. The supper was quite good–to bad I broke a tooth! After supper, I got my bag and proceeded to Higashi Ginza for the return to Yokosuka. I got a seat on the kaiso tokkyu [limited express] from Shinagawa. I was able to catch a taxi before I got on base.
(1) It's not necessary to walk on water to do this. There are pathways across the pond.
(2) Sobu Line station in Narashino City, between Ichikawa City and Chiba City.
24 Oct 1983 (Mon): I went to Dental this morning, but very reluctantly. The way I feel, I wasn't eager to have dental work done. I did go, though. I was supposed to eat soft food, so I went to Genroku Sushi for lunch. Afterward, I went shopping at Saikaya. They didn't have anything I wanted in the juice section, so I went out to the sale area and found Sun Ray mikan juice. For supper, I bought some jumbo shu mai(1). They were very good.
(1) These are actually Chinese in origin, like gyoza, but are so popular, they have, in effect, become absorbed into Japanese cuisine. The dumplings are usually filled with a pork or shrimp mixture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kcline/with/108561666/25 Oct 1983 (Tue): Lunch was at Gurabatei, ika fry & chicken saute. Afterward, there was time for shopping. I went into Seiyu, but didn't see anything I had to have. I did buy candy at Fujiya and more mikan juice at Saikaya (it is on sale). I didn't want to do it, but I stayed in this evening so I could do laundry. It saved some money, but with the over-purchase last time I bought Yen, I was still ahead on money even after the weekend. The Takashimaya curry was pretty good, but I had to eat it more hurriedly that I would like because of doing laundry.
26 Oct 1983 (Wed): Shindo's jo tendon sounded good for lunch, so that's where I went and what I had. I saw signs for oyster dishes, so oysters must be in season. No time for shopping afterward. Out of work in time to catch the 1658 kaiso tokkyu, Yokohama bound. I could buy juice in Kamakura, but I must go to Yokohama for a[n English-language] newspaper–both the Japan Times and the Asahi Evening News if I can get them. I was able to buy both papers. Then to Takashimaya, which, however, was closed. So I went to Mitsukoshi instead. I hadn't been there in ages. They didn't have a huge selection of juice, but I was able to buy white grape juice. I should have gone there before this. They sell Caravan coffee as well as Key coffee. They also have a bakery I haven't tried and some interesting jellies. I didn't buy any of that stuff on this trip, though. For supper, I went to the B2 restaurant area in Sotetsu Joinus. After perusing the offerings of the two Kansai ryori [Osaka-area cuisine] restaurants and the upscale Chinese restaurant, I chose Iraka(1), where I had an excellent dinner with a little tenpura, a little sashimi, chawan mushi, special rice, soup, vegetables, and pickles. For dessert I had a pistachio cone from Alte Liebe. Since I was in the vicinity, I went to the Caravan coffee shop to check the equipment prices. They no longer sell the cone & server as a unit. Before leaving, I returned to Diamond Shopping Center(2) to take a look at the pastry counters in the main tunnel. They had some appetizing things, including Chinese pastry, but I didn't buy anything. From there, back to Yokosuka. I did buy milk on the way back to base. Back in the barracks, I nearly forgot to make iced coffee, but I did remember in time.
(1) It's still there: http://www.sotetsu-joinus.com/shop/datail.php?id=144
(2) Underground shopping center to the west of Yokohama Station.
27 Oct 1983 (Thu): I'm doing bizarre things in my old age. I ordered beef for lunch at Gurabatei, the beef yakiniku lunch, to be specific. The beef slices, with sauteed cabbage, came on an iron plate, rather than over the rice, but I was expecting that. In actuality, it was quite good. No time for shopping afterward. I had no burning desire to go to Yokohama again, but I decided that if I made it to Chuo Station in time for the 1658 kaiso tokkyu, I would go. I made it, so I'm going. After buying a paper I took a look in Takashimaya. I couldn't find much in the way of juice, though. I suppose it's just as well they were closed yesterday. I did buy some bananas, though. Then to supper at Maharajah, a Maharajah Delight. The naan [an Indian bread] at the Ginza branch is better. It was still a very good meal, though. Afterward, I looked around a bit in CIAL(1) and bought some of Mrs. Martin's Memorable Chocolates(2). Not cheap, but still a bargain compared to Godiva. Then, back to yokosuka, which was just as well, since I only had 70 Yen (after train fare) left in the daily budget.
(1) In the Yokohama Station Building: http://www.cial.co.jp/index2.html
(2) I haven't ever found any internet hits on this. They were very good chocolates.
28 Oct 1983 (Fri): I felt like sushi for lunch today. Genroku Sushi didn't have a large selection, but I was able to get things I like–2 each of "salad", chu toro, and hamachi. Afterward, I went to Saikaya to see what they had to offer. They had some interesting pickles, including the pink pickled turnip. I tasted a couple and they were quite good, so I bought some. Even though we closed the office at 1600, I didn't go out after going to the Exchange. I went to the Commissary for supper and fruit juice not available off base (pineapple and cranberry–only available in individual servings). The book on manga was in the Mini-Mart, so I snapped it (the book, not the Mini-Mart) up(1). I made a useful discovery at the Commissary–Pepperidge Farms "deli's (sic). I tried the reuben sandwiches, and it/they were quite good. Neither the sauerkraut nor the swiss cheese overwhelmed the flavor balance. I also bought some dried peaches. I should have looked for those before.
(1) The book was Manga! Manga! The World of Japanese Comics by Frederik Schodt. Unfortunately, I don't have this book any more.
Amazon product ASIN 477002305729 Oct 1983 (Sat): Off to the Big Mikan! There was some doubt beforehand about what my "travel clothes" should be. Since I would be carrying my baggage to the train station (usually a hot business), I eventually chose a short-sleeve shirt (I could tell by leaning out the window that it isn't a particularly chilly day). That was the proper choice, because I would have roasted in the heavy long-sleeve shirt with undershirt that I initially donned. (It's nearly November, it's supposed to be chilly). The Post Office was open this Saturday, enabling me to buy stamps for mailing postcards off base this weekend. Going past Baskin-Robbins by Chuo Station, it occurred to me that they [B-R, not the station] might have pumpkin ice cream by now. My first stop in Tokyo was the Tourist Information Center for a Tour Companion. After perusing the TC for a while, I went out to have lunch. I had intended to try one of the restaurants in the Sukiyabashi Shopping Center(1). One of them offered a kaki furai dinner, but it didn't seem ready for business even by 1142(2). Therefore, I went to Hiroshima Oyster House Kanawa for my oysters. It's probably just as well that I did, because the oysters were great! That gave me change for the coin locker, so first stash, and then dessert (chocolate parfait) at Café Latin (it caught my eye because it used chocolate ice cream rather than vanilla ice cream & chocolate syrup). From there to the Mitsukoshi honten [in Nihonbashi] for the "Claude Monet et sa collection" exhibition ["et sa" is French for "and his"]. The emphasis was definitely on "sa Collection". I hadn't known that Monet had any woodblock prints, let alone so many. However, I wasn't surprised, as Frenchmen of that era were fascinated by "les choses Japonaise". ["things Japanese"]. Anyway, it was an excellent exhibition. The catalog is entirely in color. They were selling some fine modern reprints of some of the works, and I'd like to buy one, but how to get it back to Yokosuka with my luggage? The honten still doesn't have a sit-down coffee shop in the basement, so I went to the Ginza store to buy "ice coffee"(3) and have a Toarco Toraja(4) at Café Marché, where I also wrote post cards. Then, to Matsuya for an exhibition there. The one in the main salon was interesting but uneven. The artist, Toshiko, does a variety fo work. The four dye-work kimono (?) were superb and the two large paintings were excellent, but most of the medium and small paintings were just "interior decoration". The abstract stuff was the least interesting material. The exhibition listed in Tour Companion, "European landscapes by S. Takeda" (Shingen? couldn't be [this is a joke]) were most interesting. I wish there had been a catalog for that exhibition (there had been for the other–1000 Yen–I was mildly tempted, but didn't buy one). After that to the hotel to check in and change clothes. Then out to supper. I ate at the Chinese Restaurant in New Melsa–the "Chinese crepe" set that had caught my eye the first time. It made an excellent meal. Then to Chuo Kaikan(5) to buy a ticket (open seating) and a cream soda in the restaurant (Matsuya?!) To catch up on my notes. The concert was excellent. I'm glad I picked it. It gave me an opportunity to hear some works I hadn't heard before and a different arrangement (Fritz Kreisler's) of a work I have heard before (Corelli's "La Folia" sonata). I wasn't sure if Tsukiji or Higashi Ginza was the closer station afterward, so I went to the more familiar Higashi Ginza. Having done that, I'm sure HG is a little closer to Chuo Kaikan. And so, back to the hotel. The Chinese pastries were delicious.
(1) This is a building (or buildings) literally under the railway overpass that runs through this area, from Yurakucho Station to Shimbashi Station.
(2) It seems that many restaurants in the Ginza area don't open until Noon.
(3) This refers to a blend of coffee intended for use in making iced coffee.
(4) http://www.keycoffee.co.jp/e/story/toraja.html In English
(5) This is not a reference to Kankoku Chuo Kaikan in Minami-Azabu, but to a concert hall in Ginza 2-Chome, near Shintomicho Station (subway).
30 Oct 1983 (Sun): Having examined Tour Companion before checking out of the hotel, I'm on my way to Shinjuku after stashing my bag in Ginza Station and buying newspapers (that only leaves me with a 10 Yen coin and no bill smaller than 5000 Yen). I arrived in Shinjuku a little early for lunch, so I wandered around in Isetan for a while. I had lunch in Ganga, their "Indian" restaurant. It's not bad, but Maharajah and Moti are better. After lunch to Odakyu for the Escher exhibition, which was fascinating(1). There were far more drawings than appear in the book I bought in Washington D.C. There was also some "exploratory," "trivial," or "study" material. Seeing the actual material and works produced by Escher's own hand, as opposed to a reproduction, gave me a better sense of the hours of work he must have spent making those works. Along with the catalog, I got (free) a paper with a plan for creating one of the designs using rubber stamps. I got the bat & angel design, which is the one I would have bought if I had decided to buy one. It took me a while, but I produced the design. Following that, I wanted a snack, but first I stopped in Takano(2). However, they didn't have anything I couldn't live without. The Subnade has plenty of snack and coffee shops, so that's where I went. I stopped in a Caravan coffee shop name Coffee Hitobito and had a "Bavarois coffee mode", which was excellent. Thus refreshed, I headed for Ginza Station. I considered seeing the Beethoven exhibition at the Suntory Museum, but wasn't sure I could make the next music performance and didn't want to tire myself out before going back to Yokosuka (I still have the cold). In Ginza Station, I stopped to finish a couple of postcards, mailed them, and then bot my bag and headed for the train ("feeder" to Shinagawa and kaiso tokkyu from there). I'll eat supper before returning to base. The most I'll want to do after returning to the barracks will be checking my mail at the office. Supper was kakinabe at Shindo. It's a little sweet–I probably won't eat it often. The oysters were first-rate, though. I'll definitely be ordering kaki furai and kaki su there. I took a taxi from the Main Gate and did go check my mail after making iced coffee.
(1) M. C. Escher: http://www.mcescher.com/ Unfortunately, the list of site links at the left of the home page does not display all the links, and the list has no scroll bar! You have to work a bit to get to the bottom links (I did it with the "Tab" key on my keyboard).
(2) A Japanese chain selling fresh fruit, products made with fruit, and some other products. Their web site is in Japanese only and does not translate well.
31 Oct 1983 (Mon): Lunch was yaki niku don at Gurabatei. No shopping afterward. After work, I headed for the Shioiri area. First, I located Katana Zushi(1). Then, I took a look in the "Shioiri Ginza"(2). There are only a few small restaurants, but several fruit stores and at least one confectionery. In addition, at the end (it isn't very long), by a park, there is a Pasco store (with associated snack shop) where I can buy Pasco peanut butter. I returned to Katana Zushi for supper. The sushi is outstanding. I had a couple of kinds of fish that were new to me: sanma [or samma, which is pike or saury] and shimaji [striped jack]. It is expensive, though. 2800 Yen for seven servings. After spending that much for supper, I didn't buy any fruit or pastry and returned to base to play the tape from home (the reason I hadn't gone to Yokohama).
(1) I think this was a little bit north or north east of Shioiri Station on land that is now occupied by the Yokosuka Prince Hotel.
(2) This was not a covered arcade (what I used to call the "Mikasa Ginza" is a covered arcade), but part of the street that runs more or less north-south to the west of Shioiri Station.

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Anohito
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