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Japan Diary, 1 March 1983 - 15 March 1983

  • Author Anohito
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Although I have found a way to indicate long vowels in posts, the method is slow and cumbersome and is not practical for long posts. Therefore, long vowels still will not be indicated in the Japan Diary posts. As I stated before, names have been changed to protect the innocent and protect me from the guilty.

1 March 1983 (Tue): In spite of running errands at lunch, I was able to get out to buy a bento. Before buying the bento, I bought an apple at a fruit stand. I bought a sushi bento from a small shop across the side street from Genroku Sushi(1). At first, I had thought that the little shop was simply a bento shop, but after getting a closer look, I see that it is a mini-sushi-shop. After buying the bento, I bought a couple of anpan at a counter selling various goodies a few doors down the street in the same building(2). Upon leaving base in the evening, I went directly to Seiyu. I think I forgot my reason for going there, but I did buy a few worthwhile things. From there to Bon Chi for an excellent dinner of kaki-su, and pork tenderloin teppanyaki. For dessert, I went to Fujiya and bought some fancy pastries to take back to the barracks. On the way back, I stopped and bought a quart of milk at a vending machine. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) I remember this shop–more of a "stand," actually–but never did learn its name.

(2) As I recall, the 2nd and maybe 3rd floors of this building were packed with very small Japanese bars.

2 March 1983 (Wed): Lunch was very good, but I had to wait too long to get it. The next time I go to Madoca for lunch, I'll settle for soup noodles, yakisoba, or donburi, rather than a teishoku (such as the shu-mai/sweet & sour wonton lunch I had today. Well, it wasn't a "lunch," which must have been the problem. When I went out this evening, I went to check stationery at Seiyu. They do have stamp pads and must have ink for them. I bought another notebook for "diary" entries, since I noticed that their stock was low on this type of notebook. However, I bought the size smaller than this by mistake. Since the arcade Chinese restaurant was closed (Wed.), I went to Fujiya, as planned (back-up). This was the first time I've had a meal there and it was something of a comedy of errors. I ordered an entree and dessert. In a little bit the dessert came first. I was obviously a bit nonplused by this, so the head chef (my surmise) came over to check things and straightened out the situation. The tea that was included w/ dessert (set) had come first of all, and when the waitress brought my dessert in its proper sequence, she brought a new pot of tea. I tried to assure her that what I had was good enough (it was still warm), but she insisted on giving me fresh tea. The entree I had was the chicken Italian, which was a bit unusual, seeming to be baked in Italian dressing, but it was good. I had considered that the chicken Italian was too much a "standard" Western dish (baked chicken) and had toyed with the notion of ordering something else before eventually ordering the chicken. However, the chicken Italian isn't as standard as I had first thought. Because of the rain, I didn't dawdle on the way back to the barracks. And so, back to the barracks.

3 March 1983 (Thu): I wanted a large lunch today, but I didn't want to spend a lot of money. Fortunately, Genroku Sushi had open seats. After lunch, I had a chocolate mint ice cream cone at Saikaya. I got out of work at 1630 for a change, so I used the opportunity to buy some things I need at the Exchange and Mini-Mart. I was able to buy stamp pad ink there. Then, to Yokohama to investigate Isezaki Shopping Street. It goes on for longer than I had expected. I turned back at about Isezakicho 9-chome. I didn't have time to look at the side streets, but on Isezaki Shopping Street itself, there aren't many restaurants. As I had planned(1), I had supper in one of the restaurants in Fashion Plaza Odeon. Only the 7th floor has "usable" restaurants. The 8th is occupied by some sort of "club" and the 9th is occupied by a Seryna branch and Seryna is too fancy for everyday use. There is a tenpura restaurant called Ten Fuji on the 7th floor. It has a couple of combination tenpura/nabe meals and I chose one called gozennabe that includes some shellfish. It was excellent. Reasonable price, too. Actually, there isn't anything in ISS that would make me go there on Monday evenings instead of Yokohama Station. If I'm in the area for some reason, though, I know where and what time to catch the bus for the meeting. There is a large book/stationery store what may someday be useful. At the east end of the street there is a coffee shop I had noticed on the way and which seemed worth investigating. The dessert places were closing, so I haven't had dessert after supper (not right away, at any rate). The coffee shop is called Pompadour and has very good straight coffee. After coffee, I'll look through some more of the underground shopping center between here and the subway station, although I don't expect anything to be open. It didn't go very far in the other direction. However, there were a few places open, including a noodle shop that I had noticed on the way out. On closer inspection of the display case, it turned out that they have a wide selection of Japanese desserts. I haven't had any Japanese desserts recently, so that place won out over Ginza Tricolore. I was wondering if the dessert I'd selected might be too large, but it wasn't. It was an anzu something. It didn't so much have apricots as have apricot flavoring in the gelatin pieces. Quite tasty. It occurred to me that the noodle shop might be a good place to get a good meal w/ dessert for less than 1000 Yen in case I want to have a relatively inexpensive lunch [supper?] on Monday. The noodle shop has just about any kind of noodles you could want. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) While looking around ISS, not beforehand.

4 March 1983 (Fri): For lunch I tried Bengal's(1) curry. It's Japanese curry, but that doesn't mean it's not good. I saw "German" curry on the menu and had to try it. What it is the basic curry with a couple of frankfurters (cut in two, diagonally); more than mere hot dogs, but not real German sausage. It was a substantial portion for a reasonable price and the basic curry is very tasty, so I'll go back for something a trifle more interesting, such as the egg/chicken curry ["mother & child" curry??]. After I left the base in the evening, I did a bit of quick shopping in Seiyu (supermarket). There was a strange, unpleasant smell there, so I didn't linger. I bought a few inexpensive pastries at a temporary display and some Chinese pastries in the "extra-supermarket" portion of the basement. (The former weren't as "special" as many I've had, but they were tasty and inexpensive.) From there to Kujakuen in the Arcade. The portions are smaller than at Ryu-En, but the prices are lower. I had a dish w/ boneless chunks of chicken w/ a slightly spicy, slightly sweet/sour sauce. It was delicious. Supernumerary tonight, so no dawdling. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) Curry Bengal, Wakamatsu-cho 1-9 on Sennichi Dori, about a block away from Wakamatsu Dori.

5 March 1983 (Sat): The weather turned out to be pleasant after all. While I was still in my room at the barracks, the sky clouded over, but it appears to have been a small front of some sort. I took the Keihin Kyuko to Higashi Ginza and stashed my suitcase at Ginza Station. I had decided to look for Tour Companion at the Tourist Information Center and I'm glad I did. I was reading the issue they had set out and noticed that it was tomorrow's issue! They still had some copies of the previous issue (w/ the Yokohama supplement), though. I also picked up a Weekender. I decided to have lunch at the original Indonesia Raya, Where I am now. I had sate kambing and mifun goreng, for a delicious lunch. As I left, I realized that I wanted dessert. Since I had intended to go to Ginza Station anyway, I thought I'd stop at the snack shop between Sukiyabashi Shopping Center and the station [the name of this shop is Azuma]. Dessert turns out to be kuzumochi. Yum! After dessert, I took the Ginza Line to Akasaka Mitsuke for a most interesting exhibit of dyed leather work at the Suntory Museum of Art. This is the first time I've seen an exhibit of this sort of work. I bought a catalog. From there, I walked (!) To the Okura Shukokan for an exhibit of No masks and costumes. It wasn't an extensive exhibit, but contained choice items. I also took a look at what they were displaying of the regular collection. There wasn't a catalog of the special exhibit, but the regular catalog was worthwhile, so I bought one of those and a set of postcards. From the OS (an interesting building with a small, but attractive garden around it) I only walked as for as Toranomon Station. Once in Ginza, Before I claimed my hag, I had a cup of Antique Blend and read some of the paper at Cafe Marche in Mitsukoshi. After claiming my bag, I went to St. Alban's for a good meeting. Bob was there, on his way home. I had thought he intended to stay both nights, but I must have misunderstood him(1). After the meeting, I went directly to Hardy Barracks and checked in. I left there with the intention of going to Taj for supper, but was concerned that it would put me over 10,000 Yen for the day. Then I thought, "Why worry! I've brought an extra 10,000 Yen for ツ'cost overruns.'" Then I thought that as long as I didn't need to worry about cost, why not have supper at Castle Praha, since I've had Indian food at several other Indian restaurants recently. I went to Castle Praha and had an excellent meal. However, they bought things to me that I didn't order. I was willing to eat them, so I didn't complain about being charged for them. However, I'll either stick to the Sunday Viking or be more careful if I have supper there in the future. I was in a gluttonous mood tonight, so I stopped at Belle for goodies on the way back to Hardy Barracks. The sesame-covered "donuts" (ball-type) are a trifle different tasting, but not bad. The sachertorte was very tasty.

(1) I don't remember what this is all about. I also don't remember how it is that I got away from him without having him insist that we do something together that weekend.

6 March 1983 (Sun): On the way to the subway station I got the idea of buying some meat pastries at a department store to have as lunch rather than buy a bento. After stashing my suitcase at Ginza Station and waiting a few minutes for Mitsukoshi to open, I bought a few things in Don Q. For good measure, I bought a couple of cupcakes at the Bunmeido counter to supplement the leftover sesame ball "donuts." After buying my kabuki ticket, I went next door to Bunmeido to look at the display case and consider having something hot before the show began. However, I decided that there wasn't time. Instead, I sat outside and had the meat pastries. The curry something [piroshiki?] is the sort of thing that would best be eaten hot. The ham brioche and French bacon (?) sandwich were very tasty, though. The kabuki itself was excellent. Ukifune is a modern work and not classical kabuki at all. The earphone guide makes it possible to truly appreciate a straight-forward play and it's fortunate for me that such works are being presented at the Kabukiza. The Bunmeido muffins were quite tasty. After the kabuki, I first looked around in Yamano Music [In Ginza 4-5-? between Wako and Mikimoto Pearl.] (not for long) and then in Mitsukoshi for two-hole punches (found none) and staplers (didn't see any). I was having difficulty deciding where I should have supper, so I had a cup of Mocha at Toa while I read the paper. I decided to take a look at the tenpuraya described in the current Tour Companion. On the way there, I saw an interesting restaurant called Casa Bianco, a "Spa-talian" restaurant. Horikawa, the tenpuraya is attractive and I'll undoubtedly eat there some day, but I wound up eating at Casa Bianco. I had an excellent meal of cannelloni (much better than at Nicola's(1)), onion soup, Italian salad, and "spumone" (their spelling). After supper, I claimed my bag and headed for Yokosuka. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) For some reason, Bob liked the place. I wouldn't have eaten there more than a time or two if he had not wanted to go there.

7 March 1983 (Mon): Lunch was at Itosha, on the same street as Centraza Hotel [now the Central Hotel] not far from Chuo Station, where I often used to eat in the 1975-1977 period. I had a squid (ika) fry rather than pork or oysters. The ika was excellent. I had originally been thinking of the aji fry and changed my mind on seeing the ika fry on the menu. I had the teishoku. On the way back to base, I saw some Philippine mangos for sale in the arcade fruit shop. I couldn't resist one. It was delicious. After work, I went directly to Yokohama. I thought I would try Tops & Saxon for a quick relatively simple meal. This had occurred to me last week when I missed the bus because I had an elaborate (somewhat) supper. I had the beef (living dangerously!(1))/coconut curry, mild sauce. It was tasty indeed and actually mild. Next time, I'll have it hot. It shouldn't be unbearably hot. I had considered having bread pudding for dessert, but they were busy and time was short. I did have enough time to buy a few pastries in the "Delicious Market." I found a likely counter, Kikuya, right away. From there to the bus stop and the meeting. Sam had to leave a little early and Jim didn't have much time, so he took us to Negishi Station afterward. No problem. And so, back to the barracks. The goodies from Kikuya were delicious.

(1)Under my mother's influence to some extent (her allergies), I was avoiding beef, for the most part, during this period.

8 March 1983 (Tue): For lunch I tried Yanase(1) (strictly speaking, it isn't a tonkatsuya, but that's how I'll refer to it), which Mrs. James(2) had mentioned. The prices are a bit higher than Itosha, but the fire katsu teishoku was excellent. On the way back to the office, I bought some strawberries at the arcade fruit shop. On leaving base tonight, I felt the urge to buy some sort of goodies, But I didn't know what. There was just time left to look around in Saikaya. I nearly bypasses Mary Chocolate (I saw something good for a future purchase), but on returning to consider the chocolate covered marrons, I saw that they carry bars of half-bitter chocolate. I decided to buy that, go have supper, and use whatever is left for either dessert or pastry. Not being in a mood to experiment, I came to Ryu-En for sweet & sour shrimp. It was outstanding. For dessert I went to Fujiya and had a "Mr. Hamlet." They are rather large, but I persevered and finished it. It was worth finishing. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) Wakamatsu-cho 1-2, on a small street (an alley, really) between Chuo Dori and Sennichi Dori, on the station side of Seibu.

(2) The civilian wife of a Navy man. She worked in Base Admin, where I still worked at this time.

9 March 1983 (Wed): Because today is a duty day, I had to do all my food shopping during lunch. Lunch itself was at Fukuju–tendon & gyoza. Very good. My first shopping stop was at Seiyu, where I bought the main part of supper, sashimi and tamagoyaki. I had planned on going to Saikaya from there, forgetting that today is Wednesday and Saikaya is closed. As it was, I did my dessert shopping at Fujiya, which turned out to be a serendipitous happenstance, because I learned that they have a new brand of canned coffee that proved to be excellent, and the "mix cake" (crumb-cake w/ apples) was excellent. For my lunch dessert I bought a kobanyaki at the 70 Yen place.

10 March 1983 (Thu): Rain again. Lunch at Bon Chi. Yakisoba again, this time w/ katsu. After work, I wanted to do some shopping at Seiyu, but the supermarket wasn't open. I checked a liquor store across a side street (toward Chuo Station), and nearly bought a jar of Key instant coffee, but didn't. After much indecision about where to have supper, I eventually wound up penetrating the mysteries of the 3-story restaurant in the side street near Chuo Station. My dinner was quite good, jo tenpura teishoku and shimesaba [Marinated mackerel used for sushi or as sashimi]. However, some of the other meals I saw didn't look impressive. I'll keep it in mind, though for an inexpensive tenpura teishoku w/ sashimi on the side. The rain dampened my desire to look for instant coffee. I settled for a couple cans of Coffee way from Fujiya. I'll take the rest of the Great Taste(1) to work. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) This was a Philippine instant coffee I had brought with me from my previous tour of duty. It is still being sold.

11 March 1983 (Fri): In the past I had seen a "daily special" on display in front of Kujakuen in the arcade. Today, having researched(1) the characters enough to pronounce about the first 2/3 of the sign(2), I went there for lunch. Today, they had some sort of fish balls in sweet & sour sauce and eggplant w/ minced pork. It was delicious. After lunch, I went to buy coffee. I didn't go to Seiyu for two reasons. First, I didn't have much time left and Seiyu was away from the base. Second, From what I could see last night, they might be doing some serious rearranging down there. Anyway, I was able to get what I wanted at Saikaya. After work, I went directly to Chuo Station and am now on a kaiso tokkyu to Shinagawa. I bought a newspaper in Shinagawa, thence to Hardy barracks. At Hardy Barracks, I relaxed for a few minutes, pondered where to eat supper, and changed clothes. I finally decided that I would probably eat supper at Rasa Singapura, but would investigate Italian Garden. IG's menu looks promising, but appears to be a bit fancy. I would prefer to be wearing a tie to eat there. Then, I changed my mind and decided to give Double Ax another try. It was full, which is probably just as well. Something about the place displeases me. It looks downright tacky, for one thing. Anyway, I made my way to Rasa Singapura, only to find that it was full as well. I was able to get a table at Moti, where I had a delicious meal of sag mutton and butter rice. For dessert, I had the carrot concoction. It was very interesting and I think I even like it. Very rich. It's served hot, which surprised me. After supper, as I had intended, I went to don Q to buy pastry. I bought two nights worth (and milk as well). I didn't buy any chocolate goodies figuring that avoiding the chocolate pastries/confections would encourage me to start on the Mary's chocolate bar. And so, back to Hardy Barracks.

(1) In the Nelson Japanese-English Character Dictionary. I had the 1st edition. There is now a 2nd edition (1995) out.

(2) The most common text for such signs begins "kyo no osusume hin," or "Today's recommended course".

12 March 1983 (Sat): The afternoon will be spent in Shinjuku (mainly, anyway, including late morning). I came directly to Shinjuku, intending to have my morning coffee somewhere here. I finally learned from Tour Companion where the real underground shopping center [Subnade] is on the west side and I intended to explore that, the Keio Mall, and Lumine for a place to have lunch. Wouldn't you know it, one of the first things I see on leaving the wicket at the station is a branch of Renown Milano, that has a spinach salad and eggplant parmesan. I'll still explore the mall and Lumine. I had my eyes open for a serious coffee shop and soon found one. Coffee House Nire. It's not the best, but good enough to be a regular stop when I'm in this part of Shinjuku (unless I find something better in the area). The Keio Mall isn't as large as the Subnade, unless I missed part of it. However, on looking at a couple of area maps, I don't think I missed any significant portion of it. There is another, more promising coffee shop at the south end of the mall. Up into Lumine. The restaurant floors are essentially like Yokohama Lumine, but I saw an Italian restaurant, Flora, that also had a "nasu gratin"(1) and an attractive seafood salad. By the time I had investigated the restaurant floors in Lumine, it was 1130 anyway, so I had lunch at Flora. It was great! The "nasu gratin" was as good as any I've ever had. The salad was excellent. This Lumine doesn't have a food floor per se, but it evidently does have cake and pastry counters in B2. On the way into Keio Mall, I checked at a kiosk, but no Japan Times. I looked around in Keio. It's a usable store. I bought a stapler and some staples in stationery. Well, I've found something better than Nire. Koffeekan Amati has stronger, better coffee. They use Toa coffee(2). From there to Kinokuniya, where I found some Japanese chess books. I'll duly report my findings to B*****. I checked on the 5th floor, but they only have a few, expensive imported chess books. And then, to Isetan, where I lost some more time looking for a snack shop in the basement. I'm now in Petit Monde on the 7th floor of the new building. After a refreshing bavarois set I saw the Surrealism exhibit in the main gallery. Not all the items were winners, but there were some that were excellent. Enough so that I bought a catalog even though it cost 1900 Yen. After the exhibit, I was having difficulty deciding what to do. It was too late to go to the Kabukiza for the evening performance, but I could make it to Yokohama for the concert if I had no difficulty finding the concert hall, or I could try to make it to the National Theater for the kabuki there. I finally chose the last course, reasoning that if I wasn't in time for the kabuki, I could see the dance program (beginning an hour later) in the small theater. I did arrive in time for the kabuki and was pleased to discover that they now have an English earphone guide. I treated myself to one of the expensive seats. After the kabuki, trying to find a place to have supper was inordinately difficult. I must adhere to certain rules in the future. Anyway, I finally had supper at the "coffee & potato" place (I forget the name) not far from HB. I had an excellent meal of seafood salad (different from Flora's), chicken & spinach gratin, and a home-made apple pie a la mode. A comforting end to a trying experience. All's well that ends well. And so, back to HB.

(1) The "gratin" is related to the "doria," but uses macaroni rather than rice in the base, and seldom, if ever, actually has any cheese. Nasu = eggplant.

(2) I never did find out if the coffee shop in Ginza Station was owned by a coffee company named Toa or if that shop sold its coffee to other shops.

13 March 1983 (Sun): I slept a little late this morning. I figured I could use the extra sleep. It's raining today, as I thought it would, rendering the matter of going to Mount Takao academic. I checked out of HB and went directly to Ginza, Where I stashed my bag. Then to Mitsukoshi for a cup of Toraza. Despite thoughts of going elsewhere for lunch, something impelled me to look in B3. The I remembered–I had seen some appetizing lunches and teishoku at the Chinese restaurant. I had an excellent lunch. My original thought about dessert had been to wait until Shinjuku, but my eye was caught by the Morinaga ice cream stand, and I thought that might make a substantial, inexpensive dessert. I had a double almond–quite a tasty morsel. From there to Shinjuku for an exhibit of paintings done in Khajuraho [?] India by Hideto Sato. This was at Keio, where I was yesterday, and where I changed $20 to Yen so that I would have a cushion for today, before going up to the exhibit. Anyway, the exhibit was well worth seeing. The artist tried to strike up a conversation, but I knew my Japanese was insufficient for a detailed discussion of the paintings, so I avoided the conversation by being absorbed in the paintings(1). After leaving the exhibit, on the same floor I noticed some promising gift possibilities for Mother. One depends on being compatible w/ U.S. current, which si doubtful, but I may be able to find an export version of the something. [I don't remember what this "something" was]. On leaving Keio, I had coffee at "Cooky" (no kidding) in the Mall [Keio, I guess]. Fair. On heading for Shinjuku Station, I realized that I didn't have time for the exhibit at Ikebukuro. I started to take a look around the Subnade (saw a shop w/ some very fancy ties), but decided that I shouldn't take the time for that either, and took the subway to Ginza instead. I had a first-rate cup of coffee (to make up for the mediocre coffee at Cooky) at Toa. Since I had left my program in my bag, I had to open the locker and get it before going to the Kabukiza. I had been intending to look for a sushi bento (in spite of today being Sunday) before going to buy my ticket, but time was short, so I went to buy a ticket instead. While waiting for the doors to open, I went over to the "package" side of Bunmeido. They sell only a few of their items by the each, but I bought something what turned out to be tasty. The kabuki itself was outstanding. Sukeroku is one of the all-time great kabuki works and I'm delighted that I was able to see it. The performance was finished relatively early, so in spite of having had a tasty curry rice during the intermission, I decided to have something to eat in Tokyo, where I would have access to restaurants from the station tunnel. I ended up at Ginza Lion for a oyster fry, which wasn't bad, but was mediocre compared to the oysters I usually get. It must be just about the end of the season. Maybe it was just because they were cold, but there's nothing wrong with kaki su, which is cold [room temperature]. Oh well, I suppose it's time to quit eating oysters until next season. It appears that the rain has quit. I could have waited [until returning to Yokosuka to eat] after all. I've broken into the bar of Mary's half-better chocolate and it's the best I've had in Japan! As good as the Swiss or West German brands. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) This might seem rude, but I couldn't figure any other way to avoid futile attempts at conversation. Since this wasn't the sort of major exhibition at which foreigners could be expected, the artist may have leapt to the erroneous conclusion that any foreigner who showed up must know Japanese.

14 March 1983 (Mon): Sushi for lunch at the usual place [Genroku Sushi]. I only saw one item that didn't look familiar. It wasn't notably fascinating, though, so I didn't try it. After lunch, I had a bit of time left, so I went to A-33, which was closed, of course. I may never become accustomed to having everything on base closed on Monday. After work, I came directly to Yokohama. I'm eating at Morinoki again. This time, I'm in trying their okonomiyaki. I also ordered an ebi salad. When I ordered, the waitress asked a question about a small something (or few). "Sukoshi...ii desu ka?" I answered "ii desu" rather than asking her to repeat it slowly, figuring that matter could hardly be critical. I eventually realized that she was asking me if it was alright that there was a small salad/were a few vegetables with the okonomiyaki. This wasn't any problem, since the salad with the okonomiyaki was mostly cabbage, which didn't appear in the ebi salad. Anyway, it was all very good. The raspberry sour for dessert was delicious. There was a Jucheim's nearby, so I bought two each of a couple of their items to see what they were like. And then, to the meeting, after which, a ride to Byobugaura and the train to Chuo Station. And so, back to the barracks.

15 March 1983 (Tue): Today I made/tried a low-risk experiment for lunch–the Arcade B(1) restaurant. I figured the katsudon would be a good test of the food. The katsudon was very good. From there, a quick stop at Saikaya for coffee. They don't carry the Ceylon tea I wanted to buy. Seiyu, however, does, so after work I went grocery shopping. I only bought a couple other things in addition to the tea–some cookies ans a small package of cheese. As usual after an experiment for lunch, I wanted a known quantity for supper, which turned out to be Ryu-En. I did try a dish I hadn't tried before–sauteed pork w/ Chinese pickles, which turned out to be delicious. On the way back to base, my eye was caught by a store I hadn't noticed before. It turned out to be a very well-equipped stationery store [Shinagawa?]. I was finally able to ascertain whether or not Japanese two-hole punches are compatible with the U.S. variety. They aren't. And so, back to the barracks.

(1) A smallish non-specialist Japanese restaurant

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